MY NEW KRAL BREAKER SILENT BULL PUP...HONEST REVIEW!

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I tried it several times no one would take me serious, and could not believe anyone in any type of successful business could get away with a response like that.
We all get good laugh about just how far customer service has declined over the last few years.
I have over lapping shifts and made sure that when I pulled it on duty staff hadn't heard me throw it out, so they would just sit there stunned at first, best gag in a while, but then I climb up on my soapbox and rant about for a bit, old man stay off my grass style..
 
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I'm REALLY glad I have the Evanix lever on the way. My shiny pot metal Kral snapped this afternoon. I felt a puff of air in my face and thought I'd probably lost the breech o-ring. Imagine my surprise when I went to cock it again and it wuz hangin' there like a broken Xmas ornament. Funny, I never even felt it break when it went. Goes to show you what kinda strength the POS has. NO ONE could have been more gentle with it every time I cocked it since new. Sure happy I don't have to wait until AV gets some more Kral levers in sometime or another maybe or not??? Big thanks to the Striker man for getting the info on the Blizzard lever and passing it on here! He's all right I don't care what they say!

Ed
 
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Matt, remember..."Happy wife, Happy life!

Ed did not shoot great only ok this trip. Not near the top and not at the bottom. I redeemed myself for melting last year in the 115 degree heat index and no wind!

I succeeded.... As well as keeping my pistol scores jumping up. Do a good weekend but not my best... But that is competition...had a blast...
 
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"strikefast"NOTE ON THE EVANIX BLIZZARD LEVER TO REPLACE THE KRAL'S. IT CAN WORK!
At least so far mine has. I just drilled the back pivot hole out a little with a 3/16" drill bit. It allowed enough room for the lever to not push the probe out of the breech. 

i loaded the mag and it performed flawlessly. It even sounded better. I did shot it into the woods in the dark, so I need to try it in the morn. The end will still need to be shortened and bent out a little. It is too strong to just bend in a vice without heat. I will update here later......
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Strikefast,
where you able to use the stock linkage screw or did you have to use something else? I have Blizzard lever and took off the stock one, haven't drilled yet. I notice with the stock set up the the pin/screw is threaded so that it goes into the lower brace and it threads in so that it's counter sunken so as to clear breach in use.
On the Blizzard lever I have it's threaded on both the braces, and of course I have nothing in the garage that will thread into it in the same way of the stock configuration.
Not really worried about being able to make it work, as figuring this out will be just about going down the hardware store and looking in the specialty fasteners section, just curious what you used.
 
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I used the stock blots and they fit back in with no alterations.
the purpose of drilling out the rear hole wider was to allow space around the stock bolt for the lever to be able to move back a little. That allowed the lever to move back and keep the pellet probe almost flush with the breech.
The front bolt that pulls the cocking link is only threaded on the bottom, and the upper section of the bolt moved freely in the stock and Blizzard lever. So nothing needed except drilling out the back hole in the Blizzard lever. 
 
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Thanks for both the question and the answer guys as my Blizzard lever should be here soon. It went finally went through USPS in NY yesterday. Good to know the oem screws will work. Matt from GTA was kind enough to send me a used OEM lever yesterday so one way or another my Kral should be back in action soon. Matt's the gentleman that's gonna make replacement levers & sears for them whenever he stops working a zillion hours a week.

Ed
 
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When Matt gets to making them it will be good. It would save the aggravation of UK shipping.... I have gotten Steyr parts from Germany.....1month and a day to me. UK 3 weeks to me...... Korea 3 weeks to me.... Serbia 2weeks to me..... Australia 1 WEEK TO ME. Go figure?

Too bad there is not a parts distribution here in the US for all the manufacturer's of air guns...... Hmmmmm! I wonder how much money is in my 401 k and Roth.....lol
 
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I was able to get back on the charging handles. Tomorrow I'll run the rest of the stock I have and finish them up.

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Kkarmical, Here is a pic of the Blizzard lever. The arrow is pointing to the rear hole that fits at the back of the receiver. It is this hole that I drilled out with a 3/16" drill bit. That allowed for the lever to close and lock up the striker link. The other hole is set with the tiny M3X.5 bolt, and does not need any alteration....
ONLY THE HOLE WHERE THE ARROW POINTS TO, NEEDS TO BE DRILLED.....
The bolts are the OEM ones that came with the gun. The drilling just allows the lever to be looser on that rear anchor bolt and lets the striker link lock up without pushing the pellet probe out of the receiver... I hope this explains the fix...

 
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"strikefast"Kkarmical, Here is a pic of the Blizzard lever. The arrow is pointing to the rear hole that fits at the back of the receiver. It is this hole that I drilled out with a 3/16" drill bit. That allowed for the lever to close and lock up the striker link. The other hole is set with the tiny M3X.5 bolt, and does not need any alteration....
ONLY THE HOLE WHERE THE ARROW POINTS TO, NEEDS TO BE DRILLED.....
The bolts are the OEM ones that came with the gun. The drilling just allows the lever to be looser on that rear anchor bolt and lets the striker link lock up without pushing the pellet probe out of the receiver... I hope this explains the fix...

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Yeah my Blizzard handle is different, the back hole already is 3/16, but the front holes
are for a rod/pin that is a smaller diameter than the stock one.

 
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Smaller? Man that thread on the original is tiny. I guess the lever only came alone with no bolts Ed...? Take it to the local hardware store and start threading the bolts they have from the bottom of the lever. Once you get the thread, you might need to sleeve the bolt unless they have the rt type of graduated bolt. The top section of the little bolt is fitted to the thickness and the bolt bottom is threaded thin on the original configuration. If you need to, you could get the correct diameter bolt for the top, drill the bottom of the lever where the tiny threads are to match,Then just tap it all the way through both holes.. Use blue Thread Locker on the bottom hole when threading the bolt in.
 
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