MY NEW KRAL BREAKER SILENT BULL PUP...HONEST REVIEW!

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Here is my friends response to what he did to his Kral..Keep in mind his is a .17...!! Ishanged a few words for spelling as his converter from Spanish to English seems off...

Ok I make the hammer longer to get shorter distance between hammer to valve .450 thousands from hammer to valve stem..re drilled the transfer port .015.over..I use a Anschutz barrel but is because the ones come with it no good..I change the hammer spring for a heavy one...shorter barre 4 inch.. modified the moderator with internal air defusser. Make a trigger job to 1.2 pounds.the barrel is full floating ..the rifle make 1/2 inch group at 70 yard using JSB 13.4 at 820fps ..the sp.is 18fps in 70 shoots the sd.is 5.3 fps..I make aluminum air reservior 325cc.4500 psi but fill to 3500psi because is not regulated for the moment.any further info.just ask me...say hi to will piatt ...
 
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"strikefast"Zebra, I agree on a single stage trigger on all my comp guns. The hunting ones too. But this Kral., As simple as it appeared, is giving me fits. I got is lighter with switching the actuator spring to the sear and finding a close diameter ball point pen spring for the actuator.

All was well in cocking and trigger,....Until I put the stock back on. Then I have CD's problem of it not cocking and catching the Hammer...

After taking it back to original settings , it still does the same. Something on the stock is interfering with the trigger group. I just can't figure it out! It starts when the stock gets almost on in the rear.

I thought the actuator bar was bending and tripping the sear all the time. I took the stock off and pressed it and bent it as far as the air tube. But it cocked anyway as the stock was off. So it is something else ... I need to take a break and then go back at it with fresh eyes....At this point even replacing the original springs and positions will not work .. I'm sure it is something simple that I did to cause this.....
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Have you tried using less torque on the stock screws? 

My cheaper air guns usually have more flex in their stocks and an overall less rigid design so, on some of them, over-tightening the screws causes problems of the nature you are describing (as well as others). 

On my AT44, tightening the stock screws even a little too much makes it so the air cylinders no longer fit (so you can't change them in the field) and it prevents the safety switch from moving. 

I've seen issues (to a lesser extent) on my Cricket. With excessive stock screw torque, the stock floor presses against the trigger extension rod and makes it so you can't fire it, or cock it.

All these issues were solved when I replaced the factory stocks with more rigid ones. As a short term fix, loosening the screws is an easy one to try.
 
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"OldCorps"Strikefast-I wuz thinking the same as you re. the durability of the silver finish of the Marine version, even though I really liked the look. But not being a patient man once I make up my mind I decided to jump on one when I discovered they didn't have any of the regular synthetic stock ones & wouldn't have anymore until the end of April. Should be here tomorrow!
kkarmical-I'm not gonna belittle your little bugbuster, I think it looks great! Besides I'm wanting you to 'splain exactly what steps you followed to get the shroud backasswards to allow it to be filled up with Mrod baffles. Please??? Thank you sir.

Ed
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The thing about a silver finish is that it would be incredibly easy to touch up if you ever scratched it or chipped it etc. just a coat of silver spray paint would do.

I prefer it over anodized aluminum surfaces on my air guns. The black anodized finish on my guns scratches very easily and I have yet to find a good method of repairing anything anodized. 

Also, I probably wouldn't worry about a few hunting scratches on a $500 gun. 
 
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Zebra, you missed my post back some pages....I figured it out. As usual it was simple and so obvious that I missed it. The rear of the stock has a round hole in it and the gun needs to be put back into the stock by angling the back of the gun slightly downward and back into the hole.
I had removed the the stock several times and put it on with no issues. After the trigger adjustment, putting it on straight down would miss the home an trip the link from the rod. It would hold it there. Then the gun could not cock. Old man snitt...lol
 
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In my shop making another target order. My friend in PR just instant msg me groups at 70 and 90 yds with no wind...All under a dime!

He put an Anschutz barrel on and all that I posted earlier today. I will post his groups after I quit for the day...

Need to keep making the customer targets so I can order another one in .177 ......lol
 
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Thank you Strikefast for the great review! I am very seriously considering the .25 cal Kral Breaker w/walnut stock for a pest/varmint eliminator. This would be my first PCP, and other than a (very) old Daisy lever-action BB gun and a Crosman Fire .177 piston rifle, it would be airgun #3.

Great information as I research this (and other) PCPs. I would like to stay married, so I think that this particular rifle is near the top of my present price point.

Cheers.
 
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buckyusnThank you Strikefast for the great review! I am very seriously considering the .25 cal Kral Breaker w/walnut stock for a pest/varmint eliminator. This would be my first PCP, and other than a (very) old Daisy lever-action BB gun and a Crosman Fire .177 piston rifle, it would be airgun #3.

Great information as I research this (and other) PCPs. I would like to stay married, so I think that this particular rifle is near the top of my present price point.

Cheers.
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The 25 may be underpowered read up more on it before buying it
 
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Buckyusn, glad you are interested. Like Willie said , the. 25 is a little underpowered for a .25 but it will do the job. At 36.8 fPE where it can be adjusted to with the hammer spring alone.

The .22 should b as if not more accurate and at around 32 FPE whick is where the FX Royale .22 is. I have taken 15 lb raccoon at 64 yards with a head shot.
 
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I'm definitely in no rush, and not completely sold on the 25 cal over the 22 cal. Thank you everyone for all of the knowledge and insight.

With respect to the 25 cal, I would be interested in accuracy at different power settings (hi, med, and low). The adjustable power is one of the reasons why I like this platform. The overall power at 25 cal seems adequate, if the accuracy is as good as it sounds. In all of the hunting I've done correct shot placement is key to a clean/humane kill.

I am also interested to hear how the different modifications to this platform turn out for everyone. Has/is anyone looking to put a regulator on this system? Is that even possible? (I am way out of my depth here, just asking questions based on some limited reading.)

Thanks!
 
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