HW 98

Here is what I did. The HW98/R11 did prior to now come with the aluminum adj rear butt. I guess cutting cost went to the plastic type rear adj butt. 

I ordered the SP adj aluminum butt plate that you custom fit. Then ordered a Kick easy butt pad. This alone increased the LOP. 
SP makes a plate that allows adj for LOP. I did not need any more LOP with my set up. A hand fitted spacer can be made with little effort. 2 great products. 

Morgan also offers the adj but plate and an option of pads. They offer both the plastic and aluminum adj latest as well. I have both SP aluminum and Morgan plastic. I like the SP better. Not sure the Morgan has the ability to angle the butt pad but the SP does. The plastic is much easier to fit vs the aluminum but overall the aluminum lks better and will last longer. You can angle or can't the Morgan but it is not really designed for this. 

I have linked some options for you. All of these products can be bought off the sites listed or found offered on ebay and other vendor sites. Hope this helps. I would link pics but I seem to not be able to. There are pics of both on my site fitted and on guns.
https://stockpositioning.com
https://kickeezproducts.com/shop/
https://morganrecoilpad.com

 a terrific load of info from some great members right here...makes me want a HW98 as well!
where are you guys purchasing your rifles?

Krales also.
AOA
.177 $549 
.20 $599
I am sure plus shipping. Also their listing picture is old stock showing the aluminum rear adj butt pad. The newer ones from Krales are black plastic.

I received a HW80 from Karles that I could not make shoot. It took some time but Karles made good on the replacement plus all shipping. Traded the HW80 for the HW98 price difference.

You are welcome sir. MAN, that busted stock hurts me to lk at.

Glad I could help. That's what I enjoy is helping others.

Yeah, I had the exact same reaction re stock.

Look like your are set to button up the 98. Looks like JM is using delrin for the rear spacer. Is that a 12 fpe spring kit? Take your time on the piston install. Those power seals are easy to nick on any slot.

Looking at the busted stock almost makes me want to dowel mine. That area is a weak spot on many guns. The older LGV SPEZIAL came doweled from the factory.
The stock has what looks to be a clean brake. I think a repair can be made. Even more so with the stippling being on that stock vs one that does not have it. The stippling area can make it easier to hide once repaired. 

The are many good wood epoxies available and epoxy wood fillers. The only issue I see in a repair and RE do of the complete stock is the beech wood. Not the easiest to get stripped down to bare wood. But it can be done. 
Well we will see how the build works out for you. Best of luck sir!!

FANG
JUNKYARD AIRGUN'S 

I use Snapagogo. Very easy to use and set up.

As to the busted stock there are many ways people would work this out. It is do able.

FANG
JUNKYARD AIRGUN'S 

Great results and nice shooting Dave! Nice work! Your 98 is almost spot on to where mine is at for fpe. Another good seal is the Vortek Vac Seal.

What happened to your stock? I must have missed that somehow?

Steve

"davemac18"thanks Steve
I have the Vortek seal to try also, I am glad you mentioned that 
Stock was user error when coking the gun I let go of the barrel and swung back causing the stock to brake ouch, later the spring broke which I think is related.

Click to expand...

I'd let things as is for now since it's shooting well and looks to be consistent over the chronograph. No need to make any changes.

Regarding the Vac-Seals, I've found them to be more consistant overall with outdoor temp swings, etc. You need to be more cautious when fitting them since they arent the typical parachute seal. Fit them slightly snug and let them wear in. Also, if you have the moly impregnated vac-seal (black material), make sure you also use moly for your lube. In your picture above it looks like a tube of Krytox. I've heard Moly and Krytox don't play well together so I try to keep the two separate. When switching from Krytox to moly, it's a good idea to thoroughly scrub all remnants of Krytox from the comp tube and piston. For this task I use Vertrel solvent as it's proven to actually remove Krytox residue. Krytox really bonds to the surface and not all solvents will remove it completely.

Sorry to hear about your stock, glad you weren't hurt! Did you get a new stock or repair the old one?

Steve

That was a good point on the moly seal. I've wondered about this but I've gone ahead and used the Nitrox. The worse case is the Krytrox will be contaminated with the moly but I think it will still lube well. I think the seal will not be affected but I could be wrong? There are lubes provided by seal vendors that contain some Krytrox but I'm not sure if they use it with the moly mixture seal.

once the moly is used the metal absorbs the moly as it does the Krytrox. No matter what lube you use it gets absorbed into the pores of the metal and is hard to remove. 

The same as a car motor. Caustic cleaning will strip almost all if not all the oil out of the metals. But that is cast. But steel is the same. Even the solvent they say that will remove the Krytrox I do not believe will remove all of it deep down in the molecular structure of the metal. JMO

Still very good point. 

Hard to say on the color here? Blk would work buy that will be much blk? Take you some blk tape and tape it off and see what you think. 

This would have matched the cheek rest . JMO


This set up with the kick easy butt pad kicked mine back enough for me.