Do you zero your scope again after mounting a camera?

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Interesting. I remember watching a video from Ted, and he was saying something about parallax not playing a role when using a camera. That made me believe that you can just hook up a camera to the scope, and you will be fine. However, now that you are mentioning "cheek weld" (never heard this term before, but I am pretty sure I know what it means), I see what you are saying and that I was wrong. 

Thanks for the input.

Kmd

p.s. That makes me think. Why do they not make Scopes where you have two reticles inside, that need to be "lined up"? Wouldn't that eliminate "cheek weld"???
 
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No, Your zero should be fine with the camera attached.
How are you holding the gun with the cam attached?
What gun?

*** Most likely you are holding the gun less stable because you need to move your head farther back to see the camera***
Most people I see in youtube land accomplish this by having the gun on a bipod, one hand, a knee, or other body part stabilizing the but end of the gun; and one hand to pull the trigger. Just to keep their head back enough to see the camera display...
I do every thing I can to move the scope far enough forward so I can still shoulder the gun normally and see the camera.
I use Forward Canted Scope Mounts and Extender Rails to move every thing forward.

If you check out my youtube videos you will see that all my scopes and optics are at the front of my guns... think of it like this.. You have your scope mounted, Then you generally need 1.5" to 2" of space between the eye piece of the scope and the lens of the camera to get the right eye or lens relief. Your camera is about 3" thick with the lens out, then I have my eye about 5" away from the camera screen in total thats 8 inches. For me I move the scope forward rather than my head and grip on the gun back.

See links below

The camera is always in one fixed position to the scope and displays that image to the LCD screen, This means the image you see on the camera will be parallax free, cheek weld has no effect the crosshairs through the camera, They are always in the same spot because the camera is always in the same spot.

"p.s. That makes me think. Why do they not make Scopes where you have two reticles inside, that need to be “lined up”? Wouldn’t that eliminate “cheek weld”???"
​- Part of me thinks cheek weld also helps prevent the recoil of a gun from slamming the scope in to your eye.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BSEmfpLA5Lg/

https://www.youtube.com/UrbanAirgunner
 
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X27, But brother, if you are moving your scope forward then you will need to re-zero or at least test your zero and groups. even the slightest differential in the rail can cause a change in the poi. even the how tight your anchor points are can change poi
I do agree that shooting from a camera is much harder because it completely changes your hold and control.
Proper Cheek Weld insures that you are viewing the crosshairs at the same alignment, It does play a more important role in your consistency that is to say control over the gun and tighten your groups up.
But anytime you are fooling around with the scope for one reason or another, I would say yes you need to at very least test your zero and groups, I can attest shooting from a camera view compared to straight line of sight makes things much more difficult and takes some serous practice for precision shooting to get used to it.
You have to remember a screen can only have so much resolution.

A post made about a system that allows you to view through the scope while the camera uses its own port to see the scope view has some huge promise
 
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"No, Your zero should be fine with the camera attached."
Not sure what to believe? : ) One person says this, the other person says that. LOL. 

"How are you holding the gun with the cam attached?"
I am either using the attached bi-pod, or fold it up and just lay the gun on sand bag. But like you mentioned later in your reply, I am not able to shoulder it. It is in front of me and that sucks. 

"What gun?"
FX Bobcat Mk2
" *** Most likely you are holding the gun less stable because you need to move your head farther back to see the camera*** "
I totally agree. That is what I really do not like about using a camera when shooting. 

"Most people I see in YouTube land accomplish this by having the gun on a bipod, one hand, a knee, or other body part stabilizing the but end of the gun; and one hand to pull the trigger. Just to keep their head back enough to see the camera display…"
That is more or less how I do it. Nonetheless, it sucks.

"I do every thing I can to move the scope far enough forward so I can still shoulder the gun normally and see the camera.
I use Forward Canted Scope Mounts and Extender Rails to move every thing forward."
Not a bad idea, and if using a camera ALL the time, a must. However, I do not record that much, so for me it would not really be practical, as I would have to re-zero the scope again when shooting without camera (as you have to move the scope back in order to be able to see thorough it while having the gun shouldered). Is "shouldered" even a word, and the right one??? : )

"If you check out my youtube videos you will see that all my scopes and optics are at the front of my guns… think of it like this.. You have your scope mounted, Then you generally need 1.5″ to 2″ of space between the eye piece of the scope and the lens of the camera to get the right eye or lens relief. Your camera is about 3″ thick with the lens out, then I have my eye about 5″ away from the camera screen in total thats 8 inches. For me I move the scope forward rather than my head and grip on the gun back."
I totally get it dude.

See links below"The camera is always in one fixed position to the scope and displays that image to the LCD screen, This means the image you see on the camera will be parallax free, cheek weld has no effect the crosshairs through the camera, They are always in the same spot because the camera is always in the same spot."
I understand, that IF once mounted the camera and zeroed the scope, you will NOT have any issues afterwards. However, I wanted to know if you can switch between camera on and camera off and NOT have to zero your scope again. I guess it all depends. More about that later in an extra post, as I do not want my "conclusion" to disappear in this post. Thanks for the input...

Kmd
 
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"Willie14228"X27, But brother, if you are moving your scope forward then you will need to re-zero or at least test your zero and groups. even the slightest differential in the rail can cause a change in the poi. even the how tight your anchor points are can change poi
I do agree that shooting from a camera is much harder because it completely changes your hold and control.
Proper Cheek Weld insures that you are viewing the crosshairs at the same alignment, It does play a more important role in your consistency that is to say control over the gun and tighten your groups up.
But anytime you are fooling around with the scope for one reason or another, I would say yes you need to at very least test your zero and groups, I can attest shooting from a camera view compared to straight line of sight makes things much more difficult and takes some serous practice for precision shooting to get used to it.
You have to remember a screen can only have so much resolution.

A post made about a system that allows you to view through the scope while the camera uses its own port to see the scope view has some huge promise
Click to expand...
From my understanding, he is using a camera all the time. His setup is zeroed with a camera on and he leaves it that way. He is not taking the camera off, moving the scope back and goes shooting. I am sure he knows better. 

There is a system that allows you to look through your scope and record at the same time. Take a look here. It is almost $1200 bucks?! WTF? It is just made of two-way mirrors and that is it. No idea why it would cost that much?! Especially considering that no camera, or what not, is included. Anyhow, let them charge whatever they want... : )

I actually bought 2 two-way mirrors to build something like that myself, but the mirrors are too dark and cut to much light out. 

Kmd

 
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Well, I just bought the Eagle Vision Cam Universal adapter, and once I get it, I will do some more testing. I really thing that the way I had my camera mount setup, there was room for errors. With the new adapter though, the camera should always be in the same position, no matter how often you take it on an off. That should help. At least I only have to zero the scope to the camera setup once and be done with it. 

Anyhow, this whole thing made me think. Why am I even recording what I am shooting at?! LOL. I guess it is a mix between showing off, and for educational purposes. : )

That said, I am going to mount a camera on top of the scope next, and see how that goes. I might be happy with that footage of just the "kill", without seeing the reticle. 

Thanks,

Kmd
 
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