Best distance for FT scope zero?

I like 25 yards, but others, 35 or 37 or?? Actually, what difference does it make? If you know your velocity and pellet weight and input the data to Chairgun, you will make a range card that you will have to get acclimated to. The more you practice, the better you will get.

I would think it matters a great deal (!) but be heavily dependent upon your particular gun/ammo. Play with ChairGun, should be a wealth of enlightening info. Especially the Point Blank Range (PBR) data. 

I second Mousefart's assertion on Chairgun. Velocity, pellet and scope height above the bore strongly affect how wide the "sweet spot" of the scope is (the distance where the crosshairs of the scope only have a minor variation from actual pellet strike). For example, my 25 caliber Marauder is zeroed at 35 yards, but my Bulldog is zeroed at 50 yards. Also the Maximus is zeroed at 25 yards. 

Also help if you zero at a range that you don't have to use hold-under. Helps eliminates the confusion when all shots are hold-overs.

Hmmm, Good question as everybody has their own method and distances. Listen to GLP above me here. I have learned by experience that what he says is true. 

I shoot the AAFTA Grand Prix matches here is the South East and found each gun and each FPE has their own variables in where to zero. I zero my 20 FPE Steyr at 30 yards, A Crosman Challenger that I bumped to 12 FPE at 30 yards also.

I have an HW97K that I zero at 27 yards and My comp pistol, a Crosman 1720 T, that is bumped to 18 FPE at 24 yards. I get to these by first plugging in the information into Pellet Path a program you can download to your phone from Hector Medina's web site at Connecticut Custom Airguns. After sighting in I take a center cross hair shot at a 1/4" dot at 10 yards. Then I do the same at 55 yards at a 3/4" dot. Each time I measure down from the dot I aimed at. to where the pellet actually hit. Then record the spread between them in inches. I plug that into the pellet Path program on my phone and hit enter. Then the pellet path will calc the clicks or mildots, in the form of a chart you can transfer to pape,r or as most who use it leave it on the phone and carry it like a holdover chart.

I go one step further as I have the Eric Sanders oversize elevation Knobs and side wheels/nautilus on my guns. He has a program for the laptop called Scope Knob. I use it for my final calculations, as it also prints out my elevation knob in clicks and the side wheel tape. Much neater and easy to read.

I just put the same difference in inches at 10 and 55 that I put in pellet path.
. His program will calc the clicks for me as I shoot open or WFTF class in field target. 

The key for Hunter Field target is to not have any hold under's on your holdover chart. Very confusing otherwise. The two programs will let you know if their is hold under's when you plug in your distance, scope height, pellet speed, etc. You can change your zero in the program until it gives no hold under's. That will be the zero you want for that gun. 

strikefast has good info. If you don't have access to a chrono, try starting with a 25 yard zero. Then shoot at 23 yards and 27 yards. If the point of impact doesn't go up, 25 should be fine. Basically, find the highest point of impact between 20 and 30 yards, and make that your zero.

Also, strikefast, not to be the rules police, but if you plan to shoot your 1720 for pistol field target you might want to turn it down to 12 FPE, which is the AAFTA limit for PFT.

scotton... Typo there ...It was supposed to be 11.8 FPE....

I was typing on my phone and missed that..... Lol

That makes more sense. My next question was going to be, "How the hell did you get a 1720 to 18 FPE, and is it 2 shots per fill?" Mine is around 11.5 un-regulated and I enjoy that very much.
I just wish we didn't have the stupid scope rules. What is the point of having an open class if you are limited to 12X? And what was the point of limiting all scopes to 12X max? I understand the idea of limiting the equipment race, but all of my hunter scopes were 14x or 16x, so I had to buy a special scope to shoot pistol. So there is still an equipment race, it's just a race to the slow lane.
Perfect world, open and hunter class scopes would match the rifle rules, with the caveat that the scope can't extend past the end of the barrel. Then I might be bothered to stick around for a pistol match on occasion.

Haha, yeah I put a Robert Lane regulator in, left the air gauge out for more air, milled out he transfer port
And adjusted the striker spring until I hit the FPE. I get 29 on POA shots.

After that it falls off the reg...

You can mill the valve to get more plenum, but it is not necessary.

I shoot open and WFTF do the scope power is not an issue for me. In the pistol to 35 yards make I can deal with the 12 power limit.

I prefer 50 yard zeros with holder over/under for longer/shorter distances.

I prefer to zero at the apex of the pellet flight "on the horizontal" or close to it. That way I only need to aim "dead on" or high without also needing to remember to aim low at some distances. For me and my R9 or HW95 I like a 30 yard zero. With my scope and gun this gives me a "near zero" at about 18 yards, a far zero at 30 yards, and a slight rise of about 1/8" above the line of sight at around 26 yards. At all distances closer than 18 yards or further than 30 yards I only aim high, how high to aim is dependent on the distance. 

I followed Ed's way when I 1st started into HFT and its even worthwhile in everyday airgunning