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TX 200 Maintenance

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bowwild

bowwild

Member
Dec 28, 2015
859
84
KY, United States
I haven't shot my TX 200 much. I bought new 5-6 years ago, probably less than 100 shots. Shooting again and loving it!

I watched lots of videos about maintains and upgrading.

I took the rifle apart last night. There was a bunch of sticky black grease on parts which I removed. There are two black rings, not o-rings, one on each end. Both have an open seam. Doesn't look broken? I guess the seam is to aid in removing and installing new?

I checked fps with chrony at 625 with 15.9 JSB, .22 pellets. I'm hoping for a bit of performance increase for squirrel hunting.

Any advice or suggestions?

Thanks
Roy
 
See this thread I posted a few days ago….

AA TX200 MKIII .22 cal Maintenance Check

Those of you "old timers" have undoubtedly noticed posts in previous years where I publish the results of my annual maintenance checks. Every nine to twelve months, I take each rifle out of the vault, check all of the stock and scope screws, clean the bores, lubricating as needed, and check...
www.airgunnation.com www.airgunnation.com
 
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The two black rings, I believe your are looking the piston? Those are piston bearings that are on each end of the TX piston. They are supposed to have a little gap kinda like a lock washer would have I guess you could say. So if thats what you'r talking about....thats normal. Below is a pic of the piston, compression tube and spring out of a newly opened TX before cleaning and install of an entirely new kit. And your TX is shooting really close to 14 FPE based on the pellet weight and velocity you stated. That is actually a good place to be with that TX if you are gonna hunt with it. That is close to my higher powered TX that I have killed many squirrels and other critters with. You can easily get too much power and lose accuracy with the TX. Shooting close to 14 FPE should be real good!
Accuracy is EVERYTHING with a springer.....not so much power.

a.jpg
 
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BTW...I have a Vortek PG4 kit in both my TX's. One is sub 12 FPE kit and the other a standard or "HO" kit. To me, it gives the TX a better shot cycle than the factory spring, guide, etc. But many seem to like the factory set up. This may be something you want to give a try at some point yourself. The PG4 kit is literally just drop in and done. Better/smoother shot cycle is THE key to consistent accuracy in a springer.......(y)
 
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For the past two days I've been reading reviews and comments on various forums about the new Vortek PG4. I took the spring, etc. out of the rifle last night for the first time. I didn't It was as easy as everyone says. I'm waiting for some Tune in a Tube I ordered from Pyramid air. I wondered if I should try a kit just to milk all the greatness I can out of this rifle.

I have to admit though, it seems so many reviewers/commenters have noted difficulty with springs that are too long, washers, and other bugs that have to be worked out, scares me off a bit. I don't know what I'm missing because I have nothing to compare the smoothness of my TX200 too. I'd hate to make changes and:
  1. End up putting the rifle out of action and/or me on the phone with Vortek getting technical help.
  2. Reduced FPS (I'm used to PCPs getting about double the FPE- but I sold all of em because I tired of air issues)
  3. Harming my rifle.
Many of those posts seem to be several months or even a year old, so maybe Vortek has improved the design?
 
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Cleaned up and lubed with a good moly paste will have it shooting great for a long time without a kit. They actually come with pretty decent springs, unlike some other makes.

A tune kit will get rid of any spring buzz you hear after the shot and usually makes the shot cycle a little quicker/smoother.

I wouldn't expect to gain much power over where you are now, sounds like it's about where it needs to be.

Personally, I hate the Vortek kits and have been disappointed with the ones I've used. But apparently everyone else loves them. I'd normally recommend a kit from Air Rifle Headquarters instead, but for whatever reason he no longer offers one for the TX200.

Moly paste is what you want, and it will work for lubing the entire inside of the rifle, particularly the piston seal. When applied right, it acts more like a dry lube and doesn't burn off and helps with tighter shot-to-shot velocity spreads.

Clear Tar from Air Rifle Headquarters is nice to have for the outside of the compression tube sliding surface, but any decent grease will work here. Just pick something not black or ultra sticky since it may creep up onto the exposed portion of the compression tube. You don't wanna be wearing it ya know ;)
 
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I agree with the majority of what Thumper said. He is very knowledgeable. I've read his posts for a while. Thumbs up to you Thumper (y).
Bowwild, I personally would not use that tune in a tube grease stuff. It's like a band aid on an issue....doesn't fix anything. Thumper is right about the moly paste for sure. I use the moly paste from ARH on nearly everything in the springer.....no thick grease/tar for me. It has ill effects on other things in my opinion. Now, I have actually been pleased with the Vortek kits in my TX. I have used Air Rifle HQ or otherwise known as Maccarri kits in the past in other springers. I'm sure I misspelled his name...Jim Maccarri? But, I have used his spring kits with great success...but not in the TX. Can't get them any longer.
Bottom line.....do not be intimidated or scared away from your TX 200 or the world of springers in general. If you learn the ins and outs and experiment a bit it is very rewarding. They are NOT pcps. Different ball game. But, that aside, you can achieve really good consistent accuracy with your TX and enjoy hunting with it as well. But!! all within it's limits. It's not a pcp. I have hunted and killed more squirrels with a HW97K and a TX200 than you can shake a stick at. And it is VERY rewarding. But has a learning curve..........part of the fun to me (y)
 
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You'll be fine if you want to tune it. They are very easy guns to work on, and not really anything you can mess up by just swapping the spring and piston seal out. Certainly nothing we can't help you through over the web or phone. Even any issues with the Vortek kit, which likely won't be a big deal.

The biggest part is lubing it right, with the right stuff. Basically just not overlubing it. But even that can kinda fix itself in time.

Get to it!
 
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Thanks guys.

Considering all this I intend to clean all the old Lub off the parts and inside. Then I will follow the advice on light lubrication. After putting it all back together I'll shoot and chronograph to see if anything changed.

I have no complaints with the TX at all. With PCP and rimfire distractions I'm a very serious rimfire hobbyist. I've barely shot this rifle. I'll be changing that. I have a Hawke 2x7 on it now. I'll probably look to put something with a bit more magnification and maybe illumination, mostly for fun.

I've been squirrel hunting with Rimfires since the late 60's. Only a couple times with an air rife (an Air Arms PCP). I can tell you I was shocked the first couple of squirrels with that rifle. Both were shots inside 20 yards and 1 shot each dropped them just as solidly as the .22LR.

I think PCPs are terrific. I've owned Air Wolf, Wolverine, Regal, Wildcat, and my favorite the Steyr Hunter Auto 5. All lots of fun, well made and operating rifles. However, I tired of dealing with air supplies.

I'm completely retired now with a mission to pass on my love for the outdoors and shooting archery, air rifles, and powder burners to my 5 grandchildren.
 
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I too am a fan of Vortek kits, I have used them in my Diana 34, 48 and the TX200 and it has improved the shot cycle on all. My .177 200 lost a few fps with the Vortek HO kit, it went from 915 to 904, not a substantial loss. The shot cycle is much better, no buzz at all.

While you have your TX apart polish the ends of the springs and deburr everything inside that has sharp edges.
 
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I received "Tune in a Tube" today from Pyramid air. I'm planning to use this on the spring of my TX200. This afternoon I bought two brands of light oil.
ProShop Products Zero Friction and Lucas Oil (red). I would be planning to apply tiny amounts of this to the junction points of metal parts in the cocking mechanism.

Are these plans sound? Is it ok (advised even) for these oils to find their way on an O-ring?

Thanks
Light Oils.jpg
 
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None of those products would damage anything on your TX. There aren't any orings inside the gun, and if there were those oils wouldn't hurt em.

The oils would be fine on all the pivot points too.

Myself, I don't care for the Tune in a Tube, but it certainly won't harm the gun, especially if used sparingly.

I'd still want a moly paste for lubing the piston seal and piston. And maybe use the Tune goo LIGHTLY on the spring. That sounds like a pretty decent recipe to me.
 
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Sounds good. I will get my paws on some moly paste then. One thing for certain, It seems as if very light applications are the key.

I was pleasantly surprised when I opened up my rifle that it wasn't heavily greased or lubed. The irony will be once I go through all this and I don't notice any change in FPS or feel. That will be fine too though because I have learned a lot by going through this.
 
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thumper said:
I'd still want a moly paste for lubing the piston seal and piston. And maybe use the Tune goo LIGHTLY on the spring. That sounds like a pretty decent recipe to me.
Click to expand...
@bowwild, I think this is pretty sound advice.

Here is a copy/paste from the inter web:
Molybdenum disulfide is a dry, solid film lubricant. Also known as MoS2, it can be used in applications where there are extreme changes in temperature, with great weight loads and high speeds. It has the ability to maintain its basic structure and strength while reducing considerable friction within the machine.

Perfect use for an airgun! James Maccari at air rifle headquarters sells some of the best Moly paste, imho.
 
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bowwild said:
Thanks guys.

Considering all this I intend to clean all the old Lub off the parts and inside. Then I will follow the advice on light lubrication. After putting it all back together I'll shoot and chronograph to see if anything changed.

I have no complaints with the TX at all. With PCP and rimfire distractions I'm a very serious rimfire hobbyist. I've barely shot this rifle. I'll be changing that. I have a Hawke 2x7 on it now. I'll probably look to put something with a bit more magnification and maybe illumination, mostly for fun.

I've been squirrel hunting with Rimfires since the late 60's. Only a couple times with an air rife (an Air Arms PCP). I can tell you I was shocked the first couple of squirrels with that rifle. Both were shots inside 20 yards and 1 shot each dropped them just as solidly as the .22LR.

I think PCPs are terrific. I've owned Air Wolf, Wolverine, Regal, Wildcat, and my favorite the Steyr Hunter Auto 5. All lots of fun, well made and operating rifles. However, I tired of dealing with air supplies.

I'm completely retired now with a mission to pass on my love for the outdoors and shooting archery, air rifles, and powder burners to my 5 grandchildren.
Click to expand...
Squirrel hunting with a spring gun is great fun. I do the vast majority of my small game hunting with spring guns. While the TX is a fantastic gun that you’ll likely enjoy for many years, it also gets heavy real fast when walking the field or woods. Suggest you also grab a sling. And since we never stop at just one spring gun, consider an hw50s in .177 for your next purchase. I’ve tried many and IMHO the hw50s is the best mix of power, accuracy and weight for small game hunting. Good luck.
R
 
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Just finished putting my TX200 in .22cal. Back together. As you can read above, I was a bit intimidated doing this for the first time, especially regarding oils and "grease". I didn't change any parts. The spring looked fine with no burrs. The seals looked good too. I just thoroughly cleaned all the internals of any greases and oils and then reapplied as per advice above. I didn't get any moly. I used the very sticky, red "Tune in a Tube" to grease the spring (very lightly). I rubbed with my hands a film of same on the cylinder that goes in compression tube. Wiped think oil on other parts.

Put it back together. Yep, I had to search for that durned "clip" as it slid under a pad I was working on.

Feels good when cocking, maybe a bit smoother? I put a handful of shots through the gun. I didn't expect any gain in FPS but I was hoping not to have reduced performance with just this cleaning and relubrication. Shots where 625-640 (640, 637, 622, 629) in that order. I could smell a bit of burnt Lub on the first couple of shots and then none.

So, if I ever want to put one of those Vortex kits in, I have the confidence to do so now.

Thanks for all the guidance.
Roy
 
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