Supercharged My FX500 Royale (Thanks Weatherby)

This morning the regulator had leaked to 207# and the gun's bottle still had 225 or so. I did however lower the regulator pressure down to 150-155 and was getting around 850-860fps out of the Heavies. It took about 160-165 to maintain 870fps. That's where I left it for the time being. I'll probably investigate the leaking regulator tomorrow.

Are there any concerns about running regulator settings at that pressure? I know 140-150 is pretty common so could another 10% make a difference, I'd guess not..
Oh and here is my on board regulator checker..

Here is the fitting with my 1/8BSP QC that is needed to screw into the guns receiver. I got it from Bestfittings out of the UK, Called a HW100 Reg Port Adaptor 03-W2-MF01
 
Jimmy, the Boss is regulated at 160 bar, so you should be ok.
190bar+ is most likely out of the adjustment range of the regulator, same goes for a Steyr LG110 reg. At the end of the adjustment range (belleville washers almost fully compressed) the pressure will increase dramatically after a tiny adjustment of the regulator adjustment screw. 
B.t.w. Ernest is right about the internal o-rings, when they would be leaking, it would also be leaking through the vent hole. Brain fart of me☺
 
Gijs, the O-rings that I was referring to were the two outer 11.6X2.4's. If either of these leaked the air would go to the path of least resistants' which for sure would be the vent hole. You said Ernest is right about the "internal O-rings" leaking to the vent hole. Did you mean to say "internal" here? I would think that high pressure would go to the valve chamber. Just wanting to clarify. Oh, and where can you see the actual transfer port and it is a passage that could be enlarged?

If Ernest will agree I may get a couple of extra seats and have him mill them out. That I don't have the right equipment to do right.

As always thank G
Jimmy 
 
I would like to thank Jimmy, Weatherby, and the others for all of the great info on the FX500.
I bought one of the non regulated, no power adjustable models a couple of years ago and have since installed an fx reg. and hp valve.
When I did mine there was very little info out there on how to do it and it seemed like a struggle to even get the parts together let alone getting anyone to help with instructions.
I'm still not sure I did everything correctly, getting about 860 fps for 70 shots with 25.4. jsb's and no leaks, now it's coming apart again to do the M6 mod.

Thanks again guys.
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"jking"Gijs, the O-rings that I was referring to were the two outer 11.6X2.4's. If either of these leaked the air would go to the path of least resistants' which for sure would be the vent hole. You said Ernest is right about the "internal O-rings" leaking to the vent hole. Did you mean to say "internal" here? I would think that high pressure would go to the valve chamber. Just wanting to clarify. Oh, and where can you see the actual transfer port and it is a passage that could be enlarged?

If Ernest will agree I may get a couple of extra seats and have him mill them out. That I don't have the right equipment to do right.

As always thank G
Jimmy
Jimmy, I meant the internal o-rings of the regulator piston. But if they would leak, it would be leaking out of the vent hole.
I think your belleville washers were out of adjustment range, which causes the piston to reach it's "mechanical end stop".
In this case, it is likely that the "mechanical end stop" are the belleville washers, which are compressed so far they are almost flat.
When a belleville washer is flat, it is not a spring anymore, but just a regular washer☺
Reducing the spring preload (let's say, setting at 160bar output) makes the belleville washers free to move, and the creep will most likely disappear as well.

I can't really say if increasing the valve seat will gain anything, because the hole in the action block where the valve seat sits, is the same diameter as the inner diameter of the SHP valve seat. That's why it is so hard to get the SHP valve seat out, because of the same diameter of the port and inner valve seat diameter, there's nothing to grab behind with a hook.

To measure the transfer port diameter, remove the barrel, remove the set screw closest to the load port (the bigger one), take some different diameter drills, and you can measure the inner diameter☺
The models with power adjuster have a 4.5mm TP diameter, that was also the diameter I had to drill the inner shaft of the power adjuster with.
I am curious what diameter the TP of the non-power adjustable models is.

@lavahunter, you can play with the reg. pressure a bit and see if you can gain anything regarding speed or air efficiency. That's the fun part of this hobby, getting the most out of it☺
cheers, Gijs

 
"zebra"
"weatherby"
"zebra"Have you ever weighed your Royale 500? 

I am am curious to know what makes FX guns so much lighter than other comparable sized rifles. In your pics, the breach block looks solid and chunky. I don't see anything thin or flimsy-looking on the rest of the guns either.

I know the stocks can make a huge difference but the specs show even the wood and laminate versions to be just as light, or very close. 

The 500 has a steel bottle which are known to be gravitationally challenged on other guns. It's heavier than the 400 but still lighter than other bottle guns. Do you have any insight on what the secret is?

Are smooth twist barrels thinner than LW or CZ? Or are the stated specs wrong?

Nice mod btw. I would have sent it away to get that done. You are brave!


Apologies if I am speaking for my turn, but Zebra, you kind of answered your own question, it is the barrel☺

On most other bottle guns, the barrel diameter is 15.5-16mm compared to 14mm for the ST.
I have done a lot of rebarreling jobs, and the difference in weight of the barrels is significant.
My Boss has a 16mm LW barrel and the FT alu. stock, and it is a heavy beast......
A synthetic stocked FX royale 500 with a CF bottle is VERY light and powerful, it seems as ideal it gets for a go-to hunting gun.
B.t.w. the buddy bottles are made of aluminum i.s.o. steel☺

Cheers, Gijs
It's going to be a hard one to compare without two blanks to weigh.

The standard LW barrel has a larger diameter but they also offer an option that is approx the same and one that is smaller. I assume it is more complicated than that with ST barrels because a majority of the bore is the same internal diameter as the grooves on a LW barrel - I.e. They don't have a chunk of metal removed for the full length rifling. They probably aren't made from the same alloy either.

It would be interesting to see if ST barrels are still lighter than the .5" diameter LW barrels. 

Weight difference between 2 different barrels with the same bore and outer diameter will be negligible, regardless of the rifling method. We are talking grammes here☺
The weight difference between a 14mm ST barrel and a 16mm LW is significant because of the bigger outer diameter of the LW barrel.