So if Im understanding correctly about sighting in a scope

[Lakobe1]

I have read posts that say generally I need to zero at or near the yardage where you figure a majority of your shots will be taken. After zeroing there check shots shorter and longer of that inital sight in zero range to determine how much hold over or hold under I will need, depending on the distance of the shot.
Please feel free to add to this...

 

[cahil_2]

You can zero wherever you want, then use mil dots for hold over. I zero all mine at 25 yards and then set up my hold overs. A couple of my rifles will shoot the same poi out to 50 yards then I go up in half mil increments. 

 

[Lakobe1]

Thank You, I will try this.

 

[starlingassn]

for me it depends on what kind of gun and what power level.

for instance,



all my full power pcp guns get zeroed at 55yds



my lower power pcp or co2 guns usually around 25-30yds



and low power rifles and pistols around 15-20yds





as was said, depends on what youre going to use it for.



if you're only punching paper at one distance sight in for that distance and there you go.

 

[josh3rd]

me, i shoot at the apex of my trajectory w/a 1/2" KZ on a prosport 177cal and every shot is either dead on or I hold over. just easier that way unless you are a clicker (you dial in every shot).

 

[fishinwrench]

Learn the trajectory of your pellet & gun combo, then decide where your zero best serves you.

 

[donwalk]

You can zero wherever you want, then use mil dots for hold over. I zero all mine at 25 yards and then set up my hold overs. A couple of my rifles will shoot the same poi out to 50 yards then I go up in half mil increments.

a good way to do it.

 

[Arzrover]

I zero at 30 yds... approximately the peak... so all that are nearer or farther are up in terms of clicking or holdover. I hunted ground squirrels with 2 guys that had a very good setup, though. Their scopes had full view reticles and they zero'd at 60, held under for close shots, and over for far. 135 yds was just about at the bottom of the view with 22 cal Royales. Farthest shot of the day was 136.

So... it depends on your use.

Bob 

 

[bandg]

Learn the trajectory of your pellet & gun combo, then decide where your zero best serves you.

Logical.

 

[outdoorman]

I also zero at 30 yards but need a hold under for between 15 and 30 and hold over for all other distances. One mil over for 50 yards and five and a half mils over for 100 yards which I only occasionally shoot at with my Diana 34. My UTG scope has lots of mil dots, 9 of them. Some mil dot scopes only have 3 or 4.

 

[flynviking]

Tom Gaylord who writes a blog under the name B.B. Pelletier wrote an excellent article on this topic. I copied a link to the article below. I use Tom’s technique of having my first zero at 20yds for my Wildcat and Royale 400 both in .22. Your second zero will depend upon your pellet, it’s velocity and the height of your scope above the barrel.



https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2008/05/scopes-part-5-zeroing-your-scope/

 

[riazp]

All projectiles that are influenced by gravity follow an arc, or ballistic path. That path is a factor of projectile speed, weight, initial angle and a few other factors that make up BC.

Scopes “look” in straight lines, so the point of sighting in is to cross the scope straight line with the pellet loop.

Many centerfire long range shooters choose the top of the projectile loop to zero, others choose a distance before the top of the arc, this gives you a far and near crossing point or Zero.

To do it either way you need to know a few things about the projectile and the scope to bore distance. Also there is no “Right Way”

I am by no means an expert, but I have used both, if you are willing to do the homework around measuring speed weight bc angle and bore to scope distance then the single zero at the top of the projectile arc is generally more accurate.

I generally click to my target, sometimes I hold. The single zero results in that hold always being over or clicking the reticule down.

Strelok is your friend, if you feed it the correct data it will tell you what distance the top of your arc is, or based on chosen kill zone size, what distance for a near and far zero distance.

Strelok is a little bit of work initially , but the repeatability you can achieve afterwards is worth it wheather you hunt or target shoot.

 

[bandg]

I don't think "generally more accurate" applies as accuracy is the same either way. It depends on the gun. But ease of shooting accurately probably is applicable with the method you use due to no holdunder to consider between the zero distances. I still use the near and far zero method myself and limit the rise above LOS to an amount acceptable for target size. But as you note neither is "right", just different.