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Replacing that Annoying Maverick Cocking Lever Pin

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It did not take very long after getting my Maverick for pin part number 44 to start working loose.
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I did not like the remedies that I found online so I decided to replace the pin.
I found a stainless steel truss head rivet on Amazon of the correct diameter (2.5mm). The $6.39 price includes shipping.
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The cocking lever is 7mm thick. I bought the 10mm length rivet to be able to trim off most of the hollow end of the rivet thus keeping the rivet solid in the pivot joint. I then filed a "V" into the hollow part that protrudes past the pivot arm.
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The rivet pin also needs to be short enough to clear the air cylinder when the cocking arm is in forward/closed position.
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Last step was to ever-so-slightly flare out the "V" on the bottom of the rivet to keep it from working out. I did this by lightly sqeezing the rivet with the shank of a small screwdriver riding in the notch.
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This kept from putting any stress on the cocking lever. Should I ever need to remove the pin, a pinch with a pair of pliers will straighten the ears back in place.
Now, no more hunting for a tiny pin that fell out. I would like to see FX replace this pin with a truss head pin that is retained with an E clip. Hope somebody finds this helpful.
 
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Reactions: Airgun-hobbyist
Part 45 is more annoying. All it takes is someone stripping out the hex area and you have a job removing that!
45 and 42 take ALL of the stress of cocking, IMHO there isn't enough surface area for the constant movement, steel on aluminum. If i had a mill and a lathe I'd shove a bushing in there and a larger screw. This thing need to be lubed. On my project Maverick, the previous previous owner actually wore the hole out, along with screwin\ the gun up beyond belief.