I have tryed just about every thing and i am not happy. I had to pump when i first got the rifle and wanted more efficency. I have access to high pressure air and want the power back. I dont want to go back to stock setup. I dont know if a regulator would be the fight way to go or not. So i want to ask the crowd to see what all of you think. I target shoot and hunt with my gen 1 .25 cal mrod. Thankyou.
- The AGN App is ready! Search "Airgun Nation" in your App store. To compliment this new tech we've assigned the "Threads" Feed & "Dark" Mode. To revert back click HERE.
Regulate a .25 mrod.
- Thread starter fmglass
- Start date
What have you done to your Mrod already? How much power are you looking for? Can easily get more power or alot more shots but a different valve along with the reg would be needed. 40 shots at 40fpe is pretty easy to obtain with the correct mods
Upvote 0
The real question, how many FPE do you want? What weight pellet do you want to achieve that FPE at? Give us real numbers and we can give you a better answer.
My Marauder is regulated at 1800 psi at the Huma Regulator. The .25 marauder is very modified. It has to be tuned WAY down to drop to 40 FPE with a 25.39 grain JSB. You can get great FPE out of a regulated gun with a few caveats:
1. The air rifle must have a good aftermarket valve (or a very modified stock valve), consider the new ART/Sikes valve when it is released.
2. The air rifle must have a larger transfer port.
3. Other parts need to be ported and polished with a nice radius at the edges.
4. Your stock bolt needs to be relieved at the transfer port to prevent blockage/restriction.
5. Your gauge block needs to be opened up to create a larger plenum space (post regulator air reservoir).
My Marauder is regulated at 1800 psi at the Huma Regulator. The .25 marauder is very modified. It has to be tuned WAY down to drop to 40 FPE with a 25.39 grain JSB. You can get great FPE out of a regulated gun with a few caveats:
1. The air rifle must have a good aftermarket valve (or a very modified stock valve), consider the new ART/Sikes valve when it is released.
2. The air rifle must have a larger transfer port.
3. Other parts need to be ported and polished with a nice radius at the edges.
4. Your stock bolt needs to be relieved at the transfer port to prevent blockage/restriction.
5. Your gauge block needs to be opened up to create a larger plenum space (post regulator air reservoir).
Upvote 0
Ok i have tryed the SSG mod, lost all power (700 fps) then i tryed the TSS mod. I never got it to work with the springs it came with. I want to get as many usable shots as possible at 900 fps with jsb 25.39 gr pellets. I need to know everything i need to make this possible to make my choice. Thankyou Dairyboy and addertooth for your replys. The valve has been drilled to 3/16 and the transfer port is .193". With all the mods i have the TSS mod on it and the hammer bounce is still there. I just want good usable shots.
Upvote 0
What I am running is similar to Dairyboy's configuration.
Hill valve with 0.187 port
Hill plastic transfer port 0.187
Barrel drilled at the transfer port to 0.187, radiused inside the barrel.
Bolt contoured to a spoon shape at the transfer port
Huma regulator with integral gauge block, set to 1800 psi (I could probably go lower).
Hill 25 gram hammer, with lighter than stock hill striker
TSS using the lightest inner spring, and the outer spring was the lighter of the stock spring or the spring included with the TSS.
hammer tube polished for cosistent hammer slide velocity.
graphite lube in hammer tube.
larger than stock TSS gap adjusted (to lower power), inner spring turned in 1/2 turn.
42 shots at 40 fpe, with only a 1.8 percent variation between the fastest and slowest shot with unsorted 25 caliber jsb exact 25.39 grain pellets.
Hill valve with 0.187 port
Hill plastic transfer port 0.187
Barrel drilled at the transfer port to 0.187, radiused inside the barrel.
Bolt contoured to a spoon shape at the transfer port
Huma regulator with integral gauge block, set to 1800 psi (I could probably go lower).
Hill 25 gram hammer, with lighter than stock hill striker
TSS using the lightest inner spring, and the outer spring was the lighter of the stock spring or the spring included with the TSS.
hammer tube polished for cosistent hammer slide velocity.
graphite lube in hammer tube.
larger than stock TSS gap adjusted (to lower power), inner spring turned in 1/2 turn.
42 shots at 40 fpe, with only a 1.8 percent variation between the fastest and slowest shot with unsorted 25 caliber jsb exact 25.39 grain pellets.
Upvote 0
Maybe you could try different combination of springs with TSS, try stiffer springs, increase pre-load if you have to.
Your goal is to get over 900 fps with 25.39's at around 2400 psi.
If that does not work, go to original spring and increase pre-load until you get that power.
Your goal is to get over 900 fps with 25.39's at around 2400 psi.
If that does not work, go to original spring and increase pre-load until you get that power.
Upvote 0
I have the stock , 10, 12.5 and 17 lb springs. I cant get the free play required to use the TSS. I have tryed cutting the valve stem, new stems and different brand springs with no luck. I just want my rifle to do what it used to do. I tryed the same mods with my gen 2 .25 mrod. No luck.
Upvote 0
lets say a guy had a 25 Mrod with a war valve a MDS hammer a SSG adjuster and it was regulated with huma regulator...what would the fastest fps he could get for 16 shots using the 33 JSB pellets?
Upvote 0
I am facing a similar question Ohio_Hunter. I am about to switch my tuning for JSB 33.95 Exact King Heavy Mark II pellets. I was hoping to wait until the Art/Sikes valves were available before I do a major re-tune. I am very confident I could hit 50-55 FPE (815-855 FPS) with my current hardware with a longish string (and an increase in regulated pressure), but the new valve makes the math look even better (perhaps 16 shots at 60 FPE, 889 FPS).
Upvote 0
As for the price of all that, hit the respective websites for components, I do not track any price changes on components.
I would also recommend you wait till the ART/Sikes valve is available, but that is up to you.
http://www.airrifletechnology.com/parts.html
https://hillairgun.com/
https://www.huma-air.com/Benjamin-Marauder-pressure-regulator-with-pressure-gauge-connection
or...
https://trenieroutdoors.com/gear/huma-airgun-regulators/benjamin-marauder-25-huma-regulator-with-gauge/
For all the drilling, smoothing, radius work, recontouring of bolt.... please contact someone who feeds their family doing tunes. All of the machining work I do, is solely for me.
I would also recommend you wait till the ART/Sikes valve is available, but that is up to you.
http://www.airrifletechnology.com/parts.html
https://hillairgun.com/
https://www.huma-air.com/Benjamin-Marauder-pressure-regulator-with-pressure-gauge-connection
or...
https://trenieroutdoors.com/gear/huma-airgun-regulators/benjamin-marauder-25-huma-regulator-with-gauge/
For all the drilling, smoothing, radius work, recontouring of bolt.... please contact someone who feeds their family doing tunes. All of the machining work I do, is solely for me.
Upvote 0
For a regulated marauder the biggest obstacle to overcome is plenum volume when using an in tube regulator. I added an extension on mine which provides 25cc's more volume over the 20cc the intube regulator provides, totaling 45 cc's. This allows me to hit 60 fpe at 2050~ psi with jsb 34's. Ideally for 60 fpe I would have closer to 60 cc's of volume. I can hit 50 fpe at 1600 psi which allows me to tune for 50 fpe and shoot all the way down to 1600 psi without issues. With my setup the most power I can get out of 16 shots is around 60 fpe. All my tuning/work was done custom by me and is too extensive too suggest but there are many ways to arrive at the same shot count/power.
I moved my OE valve seat forward .04" which allows slightly larger porting and now the valve has a 'flat' seat surface. .212" ports with 45 cc's of plenum does fairly well although my power is currently limited by plenum and not porting. I run a .225" valve seat and .255" poppet which reduces the opening force over the stock .34" poppet by around 40%~, coupled with a light weight hammer and 6.2 lb hammer spring I can tune from 20-60 fpe by adjusting the preload alone. I have 4 custom ssg's built that have the tunes built into them and are still adjustable but I simply have to just swap out the ssg (requires removal of rear 2 breach screws and buttom trigger screw in end cap and thats all) to swap tunes. Not as on the fly as a simple knob but its fast enough and 100% consistent in terms of retaining tunes.
-Matt
I moved my OE valve seat forward .04" which allows slightly larger porting and now the valve has a 'flat' seat surface. .212" ports with 45 cc's of plenum does fairly well although my power is currently limited by plenum and not porting. I run a .225" valve seat and .255" poppet which reduces the opening force over the stock .34" poppet by around 40%~, coupled with a light weight hammer and 6.2 lb hammer spring I can tune from 20-60 fpe by adjusting the preload alone. I have 4 custom ssg's built that have the tunes built into them and are still adjustable but I simply have to just swap out the ssg (requires removal of rear 2 breach screws and buttom trigger screw in end cap and thats all) to swap tunes. Not as on the fly as a simple knob but its fast enough and 100% consistent in terms of retaining tunes.
-Matt
Upvote 0
about $380.00 is what we have in parts for our 22 cal mrod. (reg, value and transfer tube, tss spring)
Upvote 0
Thankyou all for your replys. I am sending my rifle to WAR to get me setup. Ill post how it works when i get it back.
Upvote 0
u mean travis.he is no longer with wicked air any more.he has his own stuff now.hes on ebay to.
Upvote 0