RAW 1000X LRT Chronograph Results

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"beeser"I just did a search for "air gauge" as it has to do with pellets and this is what came up. Pleeeze tell me that this isn't required.
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No... You need a digital scale capable of reading down to .1 or .2 gr. I.e. a regular kitchen scale won't work because they go down to .1oz so pellet weighs won't show up. Just search for one with the right scale for the purpose.

On the graph, you want to be noting the air pressure in your reservoir for each point on your curve to see where it falls off the reg and the point where it starts being consistent if you plan on leaving it at that power level.

If it was my gun, I would scale the power back a little and try it again. I prefer a tighter spread. If the power has to be that high, I would fill it to a lower pressure as the first 10 shots look to be the least consistent before it drops off. 
 
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hahahaha... Nop..... Not Necessary.... But when guys start talking about "Benchrest" accuracy... despite the fact you can find "SOME" great Tins of pellets....
Not all Pellets are created equal......
Dillon scales are OK for powder measurements but that don't cut it for "Precision Measurement".. the sensors are not very consistent.....

Every little bit can help....


Mark
RAW -Phx Office
 
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"Mark Buchanan"From a "Metrological Perspective"... if you want to make accurate and fast measurements the scale should be able to resolve to 0.02 or 0.01. I think there is a rule
of thumb about a 5:1 ratio... but it has been a long time. Ideally, best measurements are taken using the lower or Highest 10% of a scales range.

Mark
RAW PHX-Office
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Scales with that resolution that don't drive you nuts with floating calibration are expensive based on past experience.
 
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I will throw out another suggestion, you get better velocity as you fall off the regulator. Your shot to shot variation tightens up when you are coming out of regulations. This is *normally* a sign the hammer isn't hitting the valve hard enough (spring pre-load, or pre-compression of the spring to make it snap harder when released). There is a second way to skin this cat which you may like just as much. Leave the hammer spring alone and drop your regulated pressure by about ten bar. This way, the hammer is already in the more linear part of the power curve which has less shot to shot variations (and more power). Most people aren't used to regulated systems, so they tend to think in terms of hammers and springs. This change will likely get you more shots as well as more consistent power. 
 
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This is the scale I finally got, love it BTW!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011J88S8M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For head size measurements this is one option... It's not as accurate as a air gauge system, but its fairly close, and with some practice is fairly fast.

http://pelletgage.com/products

As for your graph... Your gun between yourself and the prior owner should be "ready to go" in terms of a break in. some where around 1000-1500 shots should be enough. Mark please correct me if I'm wrong. I'll leave the tuning of hammer tension to the expert in this thread. But the big down hill line is you off the regulator. Once you get your hammer tension part worked out, run this string again and watch for a increase in FPS for a shot or two, then for it to fall over the face of the paper. Make a note of the shot number before the increase, that's your max shots per refill. Maybe knock one or two more off that to be safe. 

On my BM500x I get between 28 and 30 shots from a 230bar fill. 28 shooting 50gr, 30 shooting 44gr. So here is what I do... Fill to 230bar, checked on both the tank gauge and gun gauge, take (1) "sighter" shot, I do this to make sure the regulator is good to go with the newly filled tank. Then shot 28-30 rounds, stop, refill, sighter shot, back to recording holes in paper. Remember for 75y and 100m BR you can refill as many times as you like during the competition, so it really doesn't matter if you get (10) shots per fill or (100) per fill as long as you know when to refill, i.e. before you come off the regulator! 

Here is the cleaning tool I use, cheap and easy, works great!

http://www.mac1airgunshop.com/jl-crown-saver-p/jlcs.htm

A good example of what Mark was talking about on cleaning... I have a 22lr with a match LW barrel. The guy I got it from recommends. "Clean the chamber about every 200 rounds. Run a tight dry patch breech to crown ONCE every 2000 rounds. Never use solvents or brushes on my barrel!!!! Shot 50 rounds after you clean it to get in in good working order again."
 
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"Dirte""Beeser"
The moderator on my 1000X is 14″ long on the outside. A typical straw is only 8.5″ long. Dilemna?



Place the straws inside each other to make it longer.
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I ran a few cleaning patches through this evening and after looking down the barrel with a bore light discovered the inside of the moderator only extends past the barrel by 6". That means the actual barrel is only 23". Sound about right?
 
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Beeser...
This is a shot shot string (only 2 magazines) with a light weight 25 cal I just put together..... It only has a 280cc bottle, so not a huge amount of shots.
I only graphed 24 shots as that is where it started to drop off. Due to the full shroud on the bottle I can't use a 480 or 500 cc bottle. 
I have a couple of other shot strings with different weight pellets.. I will post those later.... along with a photo of the gun...


Mark
RAW Phx-Office
 
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