I Mobil 1 as a lube in my guns, I suppose it would work in a compressor, in fact because its really slick stuff it might work better. How many hours on yours?
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Pcp compressor exploded
- Thread starter Ignoto
- Start date
When mine was in use, I used the seco oil. I know that sometimes saving money is important but the damage lost is way more than the money saved using cheap oil.
Also for those who are not mechanicaly inclined, please ask questions before doing things that maybe questionable. Although these are very simple compressors they can be very dangerous.
Allen
Also for those who are not mechanicaly inclined, please ask questions before doing things that maybe questionable. Although these are very simple compressors they can be very dangerous.
Allen
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We are broke because we shoot these more affordable to shoot pcps......
Thank you for sharing this, I allow ventilation for my air Venturi but also try to keep plywood,toolboxes etc. between it and me while filling. Good to know I’m not just being paranoid.
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I just got my tuxing 032. getting ready to buy oil, etc. I understand the need to keep the distance, etc, but how do you deal with purging the filters every few minutes?
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I stay with a 100 ISO Synthetic non detergent. As you see in the one tuxing, I use a 5-gal Gatorade cooler. I only use 3 to 3 and a half gal of water and the rest I use blocks of ice that I have made beforehand, let just the pump run and get the temp drop, I get it to 50 maybe 40's. I don't let the temp go above 130 % and I fill 6.8 tanks, HEAT is bad all the way around! Single piston was to work very hard to fill tanks. Soon I'm going to replace the other cooling tank also. I hope this helps. oh, and I change the oil every 2 months regardless, if its black and you can no longer see threw it. it's been in it to long!!!
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Motor oil in a compressor??? Never. Use synthetic compressor oil. Yes, it's more expensive, so is having to replace a compressor or a gun.
Motor oil that happens to get into the air can combust at high pressures. Not a safe thing to have happen.
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I said "I suppose it would work", not I use it in a compressor. I use Seco in my Tuxing. I've been using it for over a year and PURPOSELY put a little coating on the back of pellets, nothing, the flash point is way higher than airguns develop from my reading. I even use the stuff in pew pews they love it, way more pressure/heat in them than an air gun. My o-rings are lasting longer too, especially the breech o-ring, my regulator 0-rings are happy.
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I hear ya, but the trouble is, somewhere someone brand new to PCP and compressors will read your post, and think it's ok to use synthetic motor oil in a PCP system, especially because it is much cheaper.
I have used (and seen others use) so many various oils in powder burners over the years with success. Even have a friend who uses nothing but WD-40 on his guns, and they are all in fantastic shape, whereas I've read many times that WD-40 is bad for guns. YMMV
I think the MOST important aspect of gun care is keeping hand oils/acids off the gun. I have a .40 cal H&K that I have never cleaned for 10 years, only oil it with MMO after I handle it, and it looks brand new.
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I hear you or technically read you. For those getting a new compressor...SECO oil is awesome not 'cheap' but it works very well and doesn't smoke like that Purple stuff.
WD-40 is a great cleaner and a lousy lubricant.
Have a friend, well several of them that put their .22's away, without cleaning, when I saw them almost cried. Took them home, tore them apart and gave them a though cleaning, got most of the rust off of the barrels, I even added a few parts to one gals 10/22 and bought her a silicon gun sock.
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I've heard that many times over the years. And have seen it fail on tools stored in a non-air conditioned shed. But as I said, I've seen my buddies guns. Pulls them out of the safe, slightly shiny with WD-40 wetness, and not a spot of rust on them. He keeps a rag soaked in WD-40 that he wipes the guns down with every time he puts them away. Maybe the WD part is evaporating from the rag, leaving behind only the slight lubricating aspect of the 40th formula?
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Using the same face shield from now on! A heartbeat and bad luck is all it takes to feel sorry for life.
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After some maintenance today i can definitely say the culprit of the explosion was twofold.
First the 2nd stage anti-return valve failed to seal because of the carbon build along with corrosion from the rusted steel fitting wich causes the high pressure to travel all the way down to the crankcase to a point wich the breather just can't cope with the flow to prevent it to keep increasing.
Second the high pressure segments (seals) worn out further facilitating the back travel even further. There are also a first stage (low pressure) valve wich was working less from perfect wich further increased this.
My take and further advise to everyone who uses this kind of simple design without a failsafe between stages is:
ALWAYS have something between you and the compressor
Religiously clean those valves surfaces and replace oil periodically to prevent carbon build-up.
Use the correct oil these things were made to run with even if the booklet tells you anything like 10w40 or any compressor oil is okay because DEFINITELY is NOT. (Not done that by the way)
Don't ever assume that because it has burst disks bad things will never occur because like it happened in this case the crankcase blows up well below the burst disk max pressure simply because Air goes to where the lowest pressure is located first.
There are signs that something is not working as they should. One easy way to tell is to turn on compressor to about 50bar and turn it off without purging the air. If everything is OK then the air should not leak from the breather vent hole. Do this 3 times to confirm the check valves are working correctly every time.
To help them work better you can polish them with 5000grit sandpaper lightly by hand and check if they have any surface damage in them. Wich with enough carbon powder they may work at time thus creating backfire when misplaced by reciprocating motion.
Below is a photo of a high pressure valve I made some work today.
Before
After
If the compressor is not building up pressure as easily it is sign that one of 4 things are wrong.
1 the low or high pressure seals are damaged. Depending on the range of pressure it cannot build anymore.
2 the check valves are not working or sealing good anymore again pressure dependant.
3 intake Air may be obstructed or clogged.
4 you have a leak anywhere to atmosphere.
I would start here first.
Hope this helps someone like it would have helped me prior using this kind of cheap devices.
If anyone wants to add up on something I thank you.
First the 2nd stage anti-return valve failed to seal because of the carbon build along with corrosion from the rusted steel fitting wich causes the high pressure to travel all the way down to the crankcase to a point wich the breather just can't cope with the flow to prevent it to keep increasing.
Second the high pressure segments (seals) worn out further facilitating the back travel even further. There are also a first stage (low pressure) valve wich was working less from perfect wich further increased this.
My take and further advise to everyone who uses this kind of simple design without a failsafe between stages is:
ALWAYS have something between you and the compressor
Religiously clean those valves surfaces and replace oil periodically to prevent carbon build-up.
Use the correct oil these things were made to run with even if the booklet tells you anything like 10w40 or any compressor oil is okay because DEFINITELY is NOT. (Not done that by the way)
Don't ever assume that because it has burst disks bad things will never occur because like it happened in this case the crankcase blows up well below the burst disk max pressure simply because Air goes to where the lowest pressure is located first.
There are signs that something is not working as they should. One easy way to tell is to turn on compressor to about 50bar and turn it off without purging the air. If everything is OK then the air should not leak from the breather vent hole. Do this 3 times to confirm the check valves are working correctly every time.
To help them work better you can polish them with 5000grit sandpaper lightly by hand and check if they have any surface damage in them. Wich with enough carbon powder they may work at time thus creating backfire when misplaced by reciprocating motion.
Below is a photo of a high pressure valve I made some work today.
Before
After
If the compressor is not building up pressure as easily it is sign that one of 4 things are wrong.
1 the low or high pressure seals are damaged. Depending on the range of pressure it cannot build anymore.
2 the check valves are not working or sealing good anymore again pressure dependant.
3 intake Air may be obstructed or clogged.
4 you have a leak anywhere to atmosphere.
I would start here first.
Hope this helps someone like it would have helped me prior using this kind of cheap devices.
If anyone wants to add up on something I thank you.
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This is exactly what I assume after seeing the photos. It's less critical to slightly underfill rather than slightly overfill. In these small compressors it doesn't matter what brand you used if you overfill the crankcase. Just an ounce or two too much and it will and it will get fried in the compression area under high heat then diesel. Excess oil is the reason your compressor failed spectacularly. The brand was immaterial to the outcome.
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