Daystate New to me Daystate Pulsar.

[wildcj5]

Got this from a buddy. Been coveting it for a few years now. He finally decided to sell. I think mostly so I would shut up about it.

The side lever is in the wrong spot compared to the current systems but I’m not shooting for speed so all good.

Anyone else have one in walnut? I only ever see synthetic or laminate. There is nothing be vid on YouTube of a walnut ver.

 

[MikeVV]

I've got a couple, not in walnut though. That's a nice looking piece of wood on yours.
I had folks tell me that the stock baffles caused pellet clipping and loss of point of impact.
I've had no such problems with either. As you can see I've even shortened the shroud on both, still no pellet clipping. I can get away with the original baffles that do a pretty good job of muffling the sound, by lowering the speed to about 800fps. I just shoot targets, at a fairly close range so I don't need a ton of pellet speed.
I still have them, had them a few years now. No problems at all.

A Saxon stock version. This one's all original, except for the short shroud and grip.

And a grey laminate stock version with a Heli-board swap and a different grip

And then there's my original, or first Daystate gun
The Renegade The Renegade only has the trigger electrically controlled.
That's a vinyl wrap over the black plastic stock.

Mike

 

[Lewis]

Well done Rob.
Please keep us in the loop as you get a chance to play with it.

 

[beerthief]

I have the Saxon stock version , wish they had the walnut when i bought this one .

 

[wildcj5]

It’s y

Well done Rob.
Please keep us in the loop as you get a chance to play with it.

It is your fault. You sold me on the electronic.

 

[Ranchibi]

Congratulations wildcj5! That is one beautiful DS Pulsar! Enjoy looking at it and , well, shooting it!

 

[wildcj5]

@MikeVV is there slight play on the fore grips of the ones you have? With the bipod mounted there is the slightest amount of play. Almost feels like the fore grip are should have its own mounting bolt to the action. Not bad, but it is noticeable.

From my shooting bench I have 59 yards to my furthest target. On the low setting I just silently smacks the spinner with boring accuracy. I have no clue how many shots it gets on low. I started with half a tin of pellets and it still had air when the tin was empty so 250 plus?

 

[beerthief]

The only thing about the Pulsar's is it takes a "special programmer" to change the FPE and from what i was told you only change one and the other two follow . And it used to cost $400 for the unit . I thought of picking one up but , Lets say you lower the mid setting by 2 FPE then the low and high also change by 2 FPE. that sucks .

 

[MikeVV]

@MikeVV is there slight play on the fore grips of the ones you have? With the bipod mounted there is the slightest amount of play. Almost feels like the fore grip are should have its own mounting bolt to the action. Not bad, but it is noticeable.

From my shooting bench I have 59 yards to my furthest target. On the low setting I just silently smacks the spinner with boring accuracy. I have no clue how many shots it gets on low. I started with half a tin of pellets and it still had air when the tin was empty so 250 plus?

Two of my three are pretty tight. One while not "loose", it can be wiggled if you try hard enough. Well, they all can be wiggled "IF" you try hard enough, but in everyday use, as in holding the forend and aiming, then no.

Try a soaking in hot water to soften the plastic, then put something that "spreads the plastic" out by an 1/8" or a little more, where it enters the stock. Then let it fully cool, while in the "opened" position.
See if that helps.

Yeah, these guns are pretty air, efficient.
With all of the adjustments with the "Heliboard" installed, it (all electronic Daystate guns) can be made to be the most air efficient guns being used with a little work.

Mike

The only thing about the Pulsar's is it takes a "special programmer" to change the FPE and from what i was told you only change one and the other two follow . And it used to cost $400 for the unit . I thought of picking one up but , Lets say you lower the mid setting by 2 FPE then the low and high also change by 2 FPE. that sucks .

First sentence, not...completely true .
While the aftermarket Heliboard is almost infinitely adjustable for pressure/pellet speed. The stock, or "as delivered" PulsarIS... adjustable for pellet speed, (or FPE).
That said, there is only three different pellet speeds available to choose from, again, in original form.
My Saxon, Pulsar is set to the middle speed. NO external equipment required !

Mike

 

[beerthief]

Two of my three are pretty tight. One while not "loose", it can be wiggled if you try hard enough. Well, they all can be wiggled "IF" you try hard enough, but in everyday use, as in holding the forend and aiming, then no.

Try a soaking in hot water to soften the plastic, then put something that "spreads the plastic" out by an 1/8" or a little more, where it enters the stock. Then let it fully cool, while in the "opened" position.
See if that helps.

Yeah, these guns are pretty air, efficient.
With all of the adjustments with the "Heliboard" installed, it (all electronic Daystate guns) can be made to be the most air efficient guns being used with a little work.

Mike



First sentence, not...completely true .
While the aftermarket Heliboard is almost infinitely adjustable for pressure/pellet speed. The stock, or "as delivered" PulsarIS... adjustable for pellet speed, (or FPE).
That said, there is only three different pellet speeds available to choose from, again, in original form.
My Saxon, Pulsar is set to the middle speed. NO external equipment required !

Mike

Guess i did not explain it very well . yes you can choose factory set speeds low ,med , high BUT if you want to change the factory settings it takes a outboard Programmer (was $400 at the time ) I have never taken my Saxon off of the low setting so it doesn't matter to me ..

 

[Arzrover]

The only thing about the Pulsar's is it takes a "special programmer" to change the FPE and from what i was told you only change one and the other two follow . And it used to cost $400 for the unit . I thought of picking one up but , Lets say you lower the mid setting by 2 FPE then the low and high also change by 2 FPE. that sucks .

Not sure where the idea that an adjustment on one pl affects the others, but it does not. It's the same board as the RW and each pl is independent of the others.

Congrats on your acquisition, @wildcj5... nice stock... I've never seen a walnut one either...

Bob

 

[wildcj5]

Silly question. Do you clean the barrel like normal with a pull through? Not excuse how the electronics work in this thing.

 

[beerthief]

Not sure where the idea that an adjustment on one pl affects the others, but it does not. It's the same board as the RW and each pl is independent of the others.

Congrats on your acquisition, @wildcj5... nice stock... I've never seen a walnut one either...

Bob

Ahhh maybe AA corrected the program . at first it was any change in FPS affected all , as i was told by sales but the gun was new then.

 

[Arzrover]

Silly question. Do you clean the barrel like normal with a pull through? Not excuse how the electronics work in this thing.

I pull the barrel and use Gunzilla and a tight patch on a jag and cleaning rod to clean well. I MIGHT use a pull through in a match if needed but you have to be careful not to rip the breech seal or replace it each time...

 

[Arzrover]

Ahhh maybe AA corrected the program . at first it was any change in FPS affected all , as i was told by sales but the gun was new then.

Early in the Red Wolf introduction, there was quite a bit of misinformation. I haven't looked at them in a while but AoA had videos about the programming. @Spray1Mark created a very comprehensive thread here on AGN about it. I would consider him to have been the most expert about them other than the engineer and software writer.

To be clear, the Red Wolf and Pulsar use the same, Mk5 board...

Bob

 

[RScott]

Silly question. Do you clean the barrel like normal with a pull through? Not excuse how the electronics work in this thing.

I use pull-through patches but first turn my Pulsar upside down to avoid getting cleaner/lube (I use WD-40 for most cleanings) dripping through the transfer port. I used to take the barrel out for each cleaning but found I don't need to, even with fairly tight pull throughs (1.25 round patch on a .22 Patchworm cord pulled through my .177 barrel); the breech o-ring rarely needs replacing.

The Pulsar is a great gun for Field Target; especially off-hand shots. The Heliboard programming takes time but is a fantastic way to control FPS across a wide reservoir pressure range.

 

[MikeVV]

I also put the gun upside down and use a pull through cord.
Then be sure to put at least one pellet through it to clean out any residual liquid.
I use Ballistol.

Mike

 

[wildcj5]

I ended up pulling the shroud and barrel off for cleaning. It was dirty. All the baffles were caked with gray lead.

 

[MikeVV]

I ended up pulling the shroud and barrel off for cleaning. It was dirty. All the baffles were caked with gray lead.

The baffles had thick lead residue on them ?
Sounds like that gun has been properly...broken-in !

I once had a Smith and Wesson, Mod. 59, (9mm semi-auto). I bought it from a city "cop" where I lived at the time. It had so much lead (bullets) through it that you could not...see the lands and grooves in the barrel. It was just a smooth I.D. It took me a week of scrubbing to get it clean.
There was no such thing as a "sonic" cleaner at the time.

Have fun with it.

Mike

 

[wildcj5]

Some updates.

The slight stock wobble turned out to be two set screws that hold the front polymer section. They are visible with the shroud but about impossible to get the 1.5mm wrench on them especially without scratching the shroud. Seems easiest jut to pull the barrel, shroud, scope and rail all off as a unit. Only two bolts hold the barrel.

Tightened them up and wobble is gone!

The other thing that needed tweaks was the trigger. It wasn’t bad if your intent was hunting/pesting. First stage was unnecessarily long and the second stage weight was a bit heavier than I like. I had been playing with a Styer 100 and an EV2 then picked up the Pulsar and said ok, this needs fixing.

The adjustment screws were 100% cemented in place. Luckily the trigger has one pin holding the blade in. Remove it and the blade slides right out. After much more heating than I thought it would take from my butane soldering iron I finally saw smoke. Much happier with it after adjusting.

I have just shy of 2,000 pellets though it now. Really digging this thing and I have more than my share of rifles to play with.

Picture of the set screws.