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Marauder air leak

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NavyKayakGuy

Member
Feb 28, 2018
9
1
Ca
So I had some issues when I first got my rifle about a week ago. Thought I fixed the issue. Replaced all lrg o-rinds. Yesterday I chrony'd the gun. Shot about 40 rnds through it. Left 1500 psi in it. Put the gun away. Pulled it out this morning, gun is at 0. Put 1000 psi in and could hear air leaking out the barrel. Gun is stock. Any suggestions, tips on where to start looking?
Juan
 
I had a 2240 get its valve stuck open.... was some junk stuck in the vavle. a piece of the CO2 cartridge. Got between the stem and valve body just hissed away, I have a 13xx with a very heavy hammer spring, needs to be cocked to pump. try cocking the gun and then fill see if its the hammer causing the problem. If it dosnt hiss then you know its not the valve its self and back the throw and or preload of the hammer. If it still hissis then could have something in the valve, or the stem maybe has a bur on it or something. Anyways start with cocking the gun and fill see if it loses pressure and go from there
 
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I had the same issue with air leaking out the barrel last week. Since it had been about 2 years since I had tore it down, I took the plunge and took everything apart ... cleaned it all up and re-placed all the O-rings. The O-rings on the gage port and the cylinder were in horrible shape. Bought a little tool from Archer Airguns to help cover the hole in the reservoir where the gage fits and it worked like a charm. Didn't have the cylinder lined up exactly correct so I pushed it out in order to line it up again. While I had it out I inspected the O-rings again before reinserting the gage port and cylinder and they were in perfect condition. If you check out Archers website you will see the tool. If you plan on keeping that Marauder any length of time, something like that tool would be worth it's weight in gold. Nothing more frustrating than thinking you have something fixed and put together again and then have to do it all over. Re-tuned it and raised the velocity up to 900 fps and she is lights out accurate.

​If your cylinder is hanging open, while you have it out try putting a little moly around the plunger hole, the plunger and the spring. Maybe that will help.
 
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Spysir ...
Live and learn I guess, but I can not find any information about molybdenum disulfide grease being flammable at all ... can you point me in the right direction as to where you found that info.

If it is flammable, of course I would want to either replace parts in my Marauder or clean them up. I found no info on the side of the container, no placard saying flammable, combustable, toxic, poisonous or inhalation hazard ...

it is classified as a "possible" skin irritant or eye irritant
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Pyramyd Air makes no mention under product description of it being flammable.

Wikipedia says that the grease if formed by using certain oils to hold the molybdenum together which quickly dry out and evaporate once exposed to the atmosphere basically leaving the moly in place once applied.

Molybdenum is a metal (non-flammable) which is all that is left once the oils evaporate very similar to graphite.

​I have seen various videos on YouTube with people actually using Air Venturi Moly grease on the Marauder cylinder valve and spring and the effects that it had on the operation of the valve itself.

​Not saying you are wrong, because if I have missed something that would indicate flammability with Moly, I surely would want to know. I don't want a bomb going off 6 inches in front of my face.

John
 
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 Check out ( Marauder air rifle.com) look under cleaning & maint. clearly states (MOLYKOTE 33 Airgun silicone grease) can be bought from Air Tank Plus . I want to say thankyou
likkitysplit for mentioning on a other topic about your rust problem on the bottom of your marauder. I knew my buddy took his out in adverse weather (exact one I bought from him) I too had the same problem in the exact spot (that rubber block in the forearm) you saved my bacon, again thankyou!!! Darell










 
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You are more than welcome Darell, hopefully you caught it before the rust had progressed too far. I just buffed mine out with 000 steel wool to below the rust level and left a small cloth soaked in Ballistol on it overnight. When I put it back in the stock I left a small thin piece of t-shirt with some Ballistol on it directly on top of the rubber block and snugged it in. Ballistol will not hurt rubber ... I use it to clean my barrel and as a lube for pellets ... it will also not hurt the barrel o-ring.
 
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"NavyKayakGuy"There was some dirt or something on the valve stem. Cleaned it out. Good to go. Thanks everyone
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Glad you got squared away. I'm often at times amazed how such minor dirt here or nick there can affect pcp performance.

At least you know know your way around the inside, that's a good thing.

Happy shooting!

?
kayaker said:
kkarmical I had a question on another post about synrod conversion to bullpup & I believe it was you that showed the picture of your's long story short , ended up buying one from guod123 (nice gentleman to deal with) it was identical as yours. Thanks for showing the picture it made my mind up. Darell
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Darell,
You're most welcome glad I could help. I love my Bullpup'd Synrod. I'm going to add that lightweight air cylinder to it next and take 1.5lbs off of it next...
 
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