Let's talk about..... "Hammers!"

[Armstrong]

So then..... Everything seems to be sorted as far as "In the mail " goes...
Except one thing. The hammer.
Now, forgive my obviousity... The hammer is released to hit a pin releasing the compressed air into the tube and behind the pellet.

I've seen a few issues on springs. What's a good spring to drive the hammer then? I've also seen some information on hammers with flutes!!!!!!!

Could someone really help me understand the implications of a good and bad hammer. Theory or otherwise.
Because this is an item I need to customise on my 1377 but I need to understand. 
I have all the flat top piston kits and larger breathing ports and etc etc... so the punch should be pretty much 110%... I'm just floundering on hammers.

Many thanks in advance.
Armstrong.

 

[bill_dd97]

The stock hammer and spring in a 1377 is just fine for most applications. The only reason to change them is if your gun isn't dumping all the air from the valve when you fire.

 

[Armstrong]

Hi again Bill. Thanks for your time.
I assumed fluted hammers travelled faster down the chute because of less air resistance travelling round it through the flutes. Assuming every tiny bit of travel fluency increased fps.
So, if the air isn't all escaping... a) How would I know? and b) Why wouldn't it?

 

[bill_dd97]

You'll only have a partial valve dump if you are over pumping. I have a diy modified piston, internally stock valve, stock hammer and spring on my 1322. I can pump it up enough to send 14.3gr pellets at 600fps with a full dump. You check for retained air after a shot by loading a pellet and firing without additional pumping. If the gun doesn't fire, your getting a full dump. The only builds I know of that have air retention, use highly modified valves and pistons with rifle length barrels, and are pushing 20fpe.