Kral Puncher Knight - Safety Issue

[opschief]

I took in a pre-owned Kral Puncher Knight S on trade via email and photos. It was delivered via UPS last evening. It left the factory in Jan 2019 and is a Gen !.

When unboxed, I noted roughly 1000 psi on the gauge. The safety was in the "fire" position. I attempted to switch it to "safe". The safety would not budge. I then cocked it, and attempted to set it to "safe". It would not move. I cocked it, dry fired it and tried to reset to safe. Same thing.

I noted that the trigger first stage is almost non-existent and second stage breaks around 2 lbs. (no I don't have a trigger gauge but I've been around both powder and air guns for 60 years...).

I suspect that the prior owner had messed with either the trigger transfer rod spring tension and or the first and second stage trigger adjustment screws.

Has anyone else run into this problem? If so, how did you correct it?

Many thanks for any insight.

 

[thammer]

There is a trigger linkage that attaches to the rear of the breech via lock nut. Back it off a turn at a time until it engages. 

 

[opschief]

Many thanks!

Now all I have to do is locate and purchase a metric allen hex key (unsure of what size) long enough to access the stock hex bolt through the pistol grip in order to separate the stock from the barreled action.

Ahh, the joys of online trades...

 

[thammer]

I think it's 5mm I'll double check

 

[opschief]

Much obliged. And, if you have the factory hex key, please let me know the length of the "long leg".

 

[JimNM]

It is a 4.5mm or a 5mm wrench. The local harbor freight has a $9.00 metric sized set of Allen Keys in a grey plastic keeper. It is what I use for almost all of my Airgun tinkering.

That nylock nut mentioned by Thammer takes the slack out of the first stage. When taken too far, it begins to lean on the teeter-totter bar that pushes against the sear release. That little bit of pressure prevents the safety from engaging.

Holla back if you need more guidance. 

 

[opschief]

Here's a follow up to my initial question and the steps I took to effect the repair.

There is an oval on the bottom of the stock with a hole in it. This is actually an access plug. It has two friction clips on the internals of this plug; one on each side. The plug is removed by inserting the short end of an allen key part way in, and by using leverage (carefully) the plug will pop free. This reveals an allen head screw, which connects the synthetic stock to the metal frame. Insert a 4MM Long Reach allen key into the screw head and turn counter-clockwise. This allows the barreled action and the stock to be separated. Once separated, the friction points on the linkages, and other components of the internals can be accessed. Clean and sparingly apply lubricant to all contact and friction points. Check the safety for function. (In this case, adjustment of the "nylock nut mentioned by Thammer", was not the culprit.) However, it should still be checked to eliminate it being the cause of the problem.

If all is operating to designed intent, reassemble in the reverse order.

Thanks to those that contributed.

 

[thammer]

Glad you're squared away. What was the issue? I've never seen anything prevent the safety from catching except that adjustment being too tight. 

 

[opschief]

Uggh... I got scammed. Big time.

Although the Kral was described "like new" and supposedly purchased new from Pyramid Air two years ago, nothing about this trade was above the board. Rather than bore you with the numerous mis-representations and downright kinks, I'll just address the safety issue.

Among other things the stock had, at one point, been painted bright florescent pink. In an attempt to hide this "mod" someone had rattle canned numerous coats of black semi gloss paint over the pink instead of simply using Citri Strip to remove it. The paint had been built up to the consistency of pudding and had dripped into the area where the trigger transfer rod and the safety mechanism mate.

In as much as the polymer components were no longer a consideration, I used a commercial paint stripper on the metal parts of the action, rinsed it with methyl alcohol, and re-assembled the stock and barreled action after lubricating the contact points.

This was a fleecing I'll not soon forget~



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A quick update. I was incorrect in thinking that the "goo" was the culprit. It was actually caused by a broken component that I'd missed at the onset. The safety locked up again, and I once again pulled the stock. The part that is comprised of the top rear pic rail, and which the trigger mechanism and safety mount to, was broken. Snapped in half. I have no idea how to pull the air bottle in order to remove and replace the broken part. And so, off to Air Venturi...

 

[thammer]

If you need anything to get it running let me know. I'll happily help out to try and lessen the feeling of being ripped if I can. Pisses me off. I get calls all the time where someone sells a Kral claiming I tuned it and it's still fully stock just so they can sell it for more money. 

 

[JimNM]

I do not like when people are taken advantage of. Was the knight purchased from a deal on this forum or from another? Would you be kind enough to share from whom it was bought? I would appreciate being able to avoid trades with that guy. A private message would be fine and kept confidential, if you would prefer.

Shoot'em good, amigo. The Knight/Nemesis can be made into a formidable gun with a little tinker work.

 

[opschief]

See PM.

 

[opschief]

Many thanks. See PM.

 

[CountDowne]

I hope this is a good place to jump in. This is my very first post on a forum. I recently purchased a new Kral Puncher Knight from Pyramyd Air and am anxious to take it out for some fun. This is my first airgun! I mounted a Vortex Strike Eagle II 1-6x24 SFP scope on it and would be open to suggestion for any performance improvements, or any ways to trick it out. I'm thinking I will install a moderator since I hear it has a rather loud bark. I'm impressed by what I've read at Silent Thunder Ordnance: https://www.silentthunderordnance.com/blog/2018/10/4/project-fx-crown-moderator Choosing the right moderator there requires a bit of science. If anyone dares to delve into their treasure trove of information and feels like you can add some understanding, I'm all ears!