Tuning Hm1000x reg core variants

[corny]

So, with the thought of running a low and high power tune in my raw, I picked up a second reg core on eBay. Appears some guy out of the UK is selling quality aftermarket parts. 
Anyway, when I got the core. I noticed it has 16 thinner belville washers unlike the oem 12 thicker washers. How do I stack the thinner washers? 

also noticed the aftermarket had an oring under the knurled nut. Where as the oem doesn’t. This oring directly impacts the gap between the gland and nipple of the reg. Not sure how that can work?



can anybody shine light on this? Can’t seem to add a photo 


Second question…some testing I did on the oem reg, seems like it takes the reg roughly 17-18 min to come to complete stable pressure. However it does come to a rest. This results in a slower first shot, is this normal? 

example 

44sec. 110bar

2min. 112bar

3m 30s. 113bar

17min. 115bar 

 

[nervoustrig]

Might want to link to the aftermarket reg so people can identify it. Someone having experience with that specific reg is what you need, otherwise you are inviting uncertainty into any answers you may receive. Or reach out to the vendor.

If I had to guess, the 16 washers are intended to be installed in a 2p8s arrangement ))(())(())(())((. How they are stacked affects the range of output pressure the regulator will support, so for example if you are looking to set it up for low pressure, a simple series arrangement might be better.

Regarding the behavior of the OEM regulator, that is pressure creep resulting from a worn or damaged valve seat. The 5 bar change represents less than a 5% difference so you can probably tune out the slow first shot by adjusting the hammer spring tension to 97% of the maximum velocity. However if the result is not satisfactory, you will need to look into either replacing the seal at the valve seat or resurface it with fine sandpaper.

 

[corny]

this is the core in looking to swap into the oem body. 



https://www.ebay.com/itm/Theoben-Rapid-std-Regulator-Core-/274599132896?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

 

[corny]

Might want to link to the aftermarket reg so people can identify it. Someone having experience with that specific reg is what you need, otherwise you are inviting uncertainty into any answers you may receive. Or reach out to the vendor.

If I had to guess, the 16 washers are intended to be installed in a 2p8s arrangement ))(())(())(())((. How they are stacked affects the range of output pressure the regulator will support, so for example if you are looking to set it up for low pressure, a simple series arrangement might be better.

Regarding the behavior of the OEM regulator, that is pressure creep resulting from a worn or damaged valve seat. The 5 bar change represents less than a 5% difference so you can probably tune out the slow first shot by adjusting the hammer spring tension to 97% of the maximum velocity. However if the result is not satisfactory, you will need to look into either replacing the seal at the valve seat or resurface it with fine sandpaper.

Yeah I think I could tune it out, but right now. The gun isn’t tuned like that. 
I would really like to know if this is typical of regulators.

I have now tried 3 different cores in this reg body they seems to show the same result. 
immediate return to set point 5-6bar lower then where they actually come to a full rest. 


unless it’s the nipple that’s causing this issue. 

 

[nervoustrig]

It is common with many regulators, particularly when new. After being cycled a number of times, usually it will improve as the seal becomes “ironed-in” with the seat.

Then after many thousands of cycles, it may wear to the point where creep returns.

Smoothing the surfaces is an effective remedy. Longevity can be improved by using a durable material like PEEK, but it simultaneously carries a greater chance of creeping if the surface is anything but impeccable. 

 

[Motorhead]

Theoben as well RAW ( Pre X guns ) had the spool assembly resting on an o-ring. the collar that sat on oring was knurled

*This allowed slight seat height adjustablity via less/more o-ring crush.

The newer X guns this o-ring is omitted and the brass spool assembly tightens firmly against the SS reg body. This collar on these has 2 flats for a wrench to tighten it.



What I've seen ....

 

[corny]

Theoben as well RAW ( Pre X guns ) had the spool assembly resting on an o-ring. the collar that sat on oring was knurled

*This allowed slight seat height adjustablity via less/more o-ring crush.

The newer X guns this o-ring is omitted and the brass spool assembly tightens firmly against the SS reg body. This collar on these has 2 flats for a wrench to tighten it.



What I've seen ....

Yeah I just confirmed that with Martin. Newest regs don’t require oring under knurled hat 

 

[corny]

It is common with many regulators, particularly when new. After being cycled a number of times, usually it will improve as the seal becomes “ironed-in” with the seat.

Then after many thousands of cycles, it may wear to the point where creep returns.

Smoothing the surfaces is an effective remedy. Longevity can be improved by using a durable material like PEEK, but it simultaneously carries a greater chance of creeping if the surface is anything but impeccable.

So I’m using a very high end digital test gauge +-.25% full scale accurate. Speaking to Martin…he seems to think what I’m seeing it typical of any regulator in the industry