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FX Impact MKII's Scope rail question.

I'm not looking for any FX bashers here with my question. Just a little advice from those that can best help. Good luck, I know.

My scope rail has some side-to-side movement when reinstalling it with the three screws before tightening them. That makes it hard to know for sure that I have it perfectly true or aligned with the bore. I can clearly tighten it down crooked to the bore, which is kinda nice if I wanted to mechanically zero the scope for windage and keep it there while moving the rail, but I don't. I want it to be true to the bore. I'm looking for some ideas to get this right. The scope rail is slightly narrower than the gun's frame to align with it. I suppose I could use a caliper front and back and do a comparison, but I'm looking for more ideas. Thanks.
 
That's about the only way to do it that i know of. And what i did. Counted my windage clicks and put it in the middle. You can see the edge of a couple screw pockets to center on. Snugged it up at that end and slid the base until it was within a click or two and tightened it down.

I wouldn't over think it. Because if you rotated your liner 90 degrees, your poi would most likely be off again anyways. 
 
That's about the only way to do it that i know of. And what i did. Counted my windage clicks and put it in the middle. You can see the edge of a couple screw pockets to center on. Snugged it up at that end and slid the base until it was within a click or two and tightened it down.

I wouldn't over think it. Because if you rotated your liner 90 degrees, your poi would most likely be off again anyways.

That's exactly what I did to eye-ball mine - using the exposed screws on each side as the guides.
 
Thanks for the input everyone! I'm use to just popping on a scope, leveling and then using a plumb bob, but noticed I was off at 75 yards compared to 30 yards afterwards. I then started digging is when I realized this was probably the reason. Glad I'm not crazy, lol. I'll get it sorted out now that I have identified this movement within the rail mount. Being new to me and doing different mods, I have been removing the rail a lot, assuming it was aligned when replacing it. I learned something new about my gun, which I like. It's not a huge deal now that I am aware of it. I have done about all the mods I am aware of, so there will be less removing of it going forward.

I have been using the FX no limit rings for mechanically zeroing the elevation. I will soon be replacing those with the Eagle Infinity rings in 34mm once I mount the Element Titian after Christmas. I have been using a Falcon Menace 5.5x25x56 I robbed off another gun temporarily until I found another I think I will like.
 
Once you like where you have it, take a #5 mechanical pencil and scribe corner marks or the whole outline of the rail, that way you can reset it exactly each time you remove and replace. The graphite will stay on for awhile unless you oil down that area with a rag. I scribe a pencil line on my scope rings against the scope as a reference mark, and mainly on springers to check to see if the scope ever moves. 
 
You can center it (within .001mm) on the rail by just having a finger and thumb on either side as you bottom out the screws. I do the big one first then the little ones next paying attention to the "reveal" of the black top plate.

Look at the positives you now have windage adjustment free of charge!

I love that your glass is always half full!!!
 
You can center it (within .001mm) on the rail by just having a finger and thumb on either side as you bottom out the screws. I do the big one first then the little ones next paying attention to the "reveal" of the black top plate.

Look at the positives you now have windage adjustment free of charge!

I love that your glass is always half full!!!

LOL, that's the way I looked at it, too. Thanks for the tips everyone! It's not a show stopper once you're aware of the play within it. I didn't catch this right off.