FX electronic guage

Someone can prove me wrong but you get a digital readout rather than a swinging needle.

The drive is still a mechanical devise.



its not mechanical at all the pressure sensor changes the resistance of current passing through the transducer and that difference is then transposed to a digital readout. This is done entirely by the movement of electrons that can be measured.


 
From all that everyone is saying I think I will just be better off getting a certified gauge then making a jig on where I can connect my air tank the certified gauge and the gauge being tested/ calibrated I then would take note of the difference and I would either make a cheat sheet for each gun or try to replace the faceplate with a corrected one. Or if it’s a consistent deviation just take a sharpie and put it on the gauge glass.
 
I have Wika gauges on all my guns except for my Crown. And all of them read within a couple bar of my fill tank gauges. My only experience with electronic gauges was the EDGun EDMU I bought a year ago and had an internal leak past the pressure plate. Can’t be fixed without a special tool that Ed identifies in a video, but never made available, and not even Brian at EDGun West has one... Not sure I would have liked it anyway. Who want to have to press a button and wait just to see your tube or bottle pressure?
 
I have Wika gauges on all my guns except for my Crown. And all of them read within a couple bar of my fill tank gauges. My only experience with electronic gauges was the EDGun EDMU I bought a year ago and had an internal leak past the pressure plate. Can’t be fixed without a special tool that Ed identifies in a video, but never made available, and not even Brian at EDGun West has one... Not sure I would have liked it anyway. Who want to have to press a button and wait just to see your tube or bottle pressure?

Mike,

Hope your having a great Memorial Day my days in the Navy started in SD and I love that city.

i saw that video where Ed uses that special tool to get the internals out of the housing inorder to change out the oring. When he finally loosened it it put a nail (I think) in one of 3 or 4 holes on the top edge of the piece that is to be removed and finished unscrewing it. I have a tool for removing the back of watches for battery change I think that could work if I ever need to replace that oring and I’m successful I post it up.

here is a link to the tool I have it has different tip so it should work as long as there is enough slack in the wiring harnesses.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Watch-Back-Case-Battery-Cover-Opener-Repair-Wrench-Screw-Remover-Tool-Set-Kit/392295568933?epid=2125579384&hash=item5b56a35625:g:GxMAAOSw0fdc2D3Z
 
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