A Spring gun you get recoil. Maybe I'm biased but I don't get that feed back from my PCP's at this time.
At lest I don't feel them and it is a bit off topic.
At lest I don't feel them and it is a bit off topic.
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Feel free to call me stupid..... Or help clearing pellets stuck in barrel
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I don’t have any experience with stuck slugs or bullets but I have removed many stuck dowel pins in the tool and die industry. Drilling through the center always made them easier to tap out. Use a drill that is smaller diameter than the rod you are using to tap the slugs out. Heat and penetrating oils help too. If using penetrating oil spray some in the barrel and leave the barrel propped up in a corner for a few days before trying to tap them out. Hindsight is 20/20 but you might want to start checking the diameter of non-commercial slugs with micrometers or calipers in the future.
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Funny story, I gave my nephew a 177cal air venturi tr5 repeater. The kids dad thought it was a pneumatic rather than a springer. They managed to stuff 14 or 15 pellets in that thing. So back to uncle it went. Pulled the barrel and went to heating with propane torch...didnt take much heat to melt the pellets....probably 1/3 of them actually melted and the rest just pushed out with a carbon fiber spar. So it can be done.
I may like the heat up idea in a way .
Like the hard steel rod /wire make a long sharp point heat it up cherry then push it through the lead projectile . Then put a hook like end on the pushed through rod to catch the projectile and pull on it / pull it out.. or the screw puller heat the screw cherry to make it easier to screw into the lead let it cool and have a firm grip on the screw.. hopfully i dont goof another to try. But i do have another method to try if so..
Like the hard steel rod /wire make a long sharp point heat it up cherry then push it through the lead projectile . Then put a hook like end on the pushed through rod to catch the projectile and pull on it / pull it out.. or the screw puller heat the screw cherry to make it easier to screw into the lead let it cool and have a firm grip on the screw.. hopfully i dont goof another to try. But i do have another method to try if so..
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I have had great luck with drilling ... done from the skirt end or dish will self center the drill. ( Aka Extension / gun drills I have are @ 12 to 18" long )
Drill can be quite a bit smaller than bore being all we're doing is stress relieving the stuck pellet / slug allowing there tension within bore to now radiate inward. Generally once a hole is threw them they push right out with minimal effort.
Have a LONG barrel where a drill can't get too of pass threw all that's stuck .. Bummer, time for a torch or a trash can tossing.
Good luck and curious as others are on your success or failure
Drill can be quite a bit smaller than bore being all we're doing is stress relieving the stuck pellet / slug allowing there tension within bore to now radiate inward. Generally once a hole is threw them they push right out with minimal effort.
Have a LONG barrel where a drill can't get too of pass threw all that's stuck .. Bummer, time for a torch or a trash can tossing.
Good luck and curious as others are on your success or failure
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OR instead of going at it old school. Try the modern day approach. Send it back to FX and tell them they sold you a defective liner! The accuracy is horrible! If they don't send you a new one your gona bla bla bla. Just kidding, good luck you'll get there!
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I plan to start with the 1/8" drill bit and have a 3/16" on stand by to maybe follow up after the 1/8"
Then try to drive the slugs out after the 1/8" drill. Go to 3/16" if it feels needed.
fuznut, I know your kidding but I'd never do that. I was the numbnut that screwed it up and figure is is just another learning thing.
If it helps others? Then all the better!
Then try to drive the slugs out after the 1/8" drill. Go to 3/16" if it feels needed.
fuznut, I know your kidding but I'd never do that. I was the numbnut that screwed it up and figure is is just another learning thing.
If it helps others? Then all the better!
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Thanks Scott.
The Trash Can Slugs have the hollow point towards the muzzle and a 12" bit will go through all 5 Slugs with room to spare.
Just have to get the needed bits. Stopped at a few local places and none had what I need.
So with some other work I contracted for this week? May be a few days before I can get to a place that has them.
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Nah. I'll hit a Harbor Freight or Lowes when I get the chance.
Not in a rush and will have a new liner on the way soon anyway.
This is the STX and I want the STX Superior.
Given some work I have lined up? Probably have the .30 barrel kit coming also.
Not in a rush and will have a new liner on the way soon anyway.
This is the STX and I want the STX Superior.
Given some work I have lined up? Probably have the .30 barrel kit coming also.
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I heat lightly with propane torch and drive out with a cleaning rod. Doesnt take much heat and the barrel stays hot for quite a while so use some gloves. It's the simplest non damage prone way to do it in my opinion. I've used this on 2 guns that I bought with jammed up barrels for a great price. Good luck. It's always an adventure.
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A few years ago, I gave an old Diana air rifle to one of the local neighborhood kids. Shortly after giving it to him he returned and told me that he was shooting the thing and nothing was happening. Well, wouldn’t you know it, but that old rifle’s seal went bad and it just didn’t have the power to send those pellets through the barrel. I think that young fellow stacked about 20 pellets on top of one another.
I initially tried to beat them out with a wooden dowel, but that was an exercise in futility. Ultimately, I found an old steel cleaning rod that was tapped at the very end for attachments such as jags and bronze brushes. I then found an appropriately sized wood screw, cut the head off, and kind of ”screwed” it into the 8-32 (maybe 10-32?) threaded end of the rod. At that point I was able to insert the assembly into the barrel and then use that former wood screw, now attached to the rod, to aggressively enter each pellet and then pull it out. The whole idea is based on stuck ball removal tools for muzzle loaders.
Of course you would want to put a ring of tape around the steel rod in close proximity to the screw so you don’t scratch the bore.
I initially tried to beat them out with a wooden dowel, but that was an exercise in futility. Ultimately, I found an old steel cleaning rod that was tapped at the very end for attachments such as jags and bronze brushes. I then found an appropriately sized wood screw, cut the head off, and kind of ”screwed” it into the 8-32 (maybe 10-32?) threaded end of the rod. At that point I was able to insert the assembly into the barrel and then use that former wood screw, now attached to the rod, to aggressively enter each pellet and then pull it out. The whole idea is based on stuck ball removal tools for muzzle loaders.
Of course you would want to put a ring of tape around the steel rod in close proximity to the screw so you don’t scratch the bore.
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If you drill it do so on slowest speed. I was drilling some lead ingots today (for another project) and high speed would make the lead bind up in the flutes of the drill bit, even when using cutting fluid. Then I slowed the drill press to its slowest speed and it drilled without binding the bit.
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Throwing in my own input regarding machining lead. I turn muzzleloading artillery projectiles on a South Bend lathe. They are nominal 3-inch diameter.
I set the lathe for slowest possible speed (around 300 RPM) and minimal feed speed to the cutter. Quick sprays of WD40 only lube. For the OP if going to drill use the minimum possible pressure that confirms you are cutting metal and low RPM. Regards, Badger
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Interesting topic but I think it is completely avoidable.
I’m new to pcp airguns but not shooting.
I understand mistakes happen, I’ve been around weapons that had squib loads fired and the slug wedged in a barrel.
And I can see how with rapid fire (esp. with powder burners) a mistake could be made.
It seems to me that most of the tales about stacking pellets in a barrel are completely avoidable by making sure each round hits the target being aimed at.
Am I missing something intrinsically different about air rifles or a shooters mindset?
Are there different protocols folks use for air versus powder even though the outcome is the same?
I was taught if any bullet leaves the barrel I’m responsible for knowing where it will stop.
If nothing leaves the barrel or I don’t see or have a hit on target I stop shooting and find out why.
Assuming bench rest shooting here and not field hunting etc. for these "malfunctions".
I don’t understand how "stackers" are caused when using a bolt action air rifle unless proper protocols are not being kept in mind and practiced.
Stupid?maybe, inattentive definitely.
Comments?
I would drill through the slugs and get a tight fitting dowel or non-marring rod and force the remaining lead out of the barrel.
I’m new to pcp airguns but not shooting.
I understand mistakes happen, I’ve been around weapons that had squib loads fired and the slug wedged in a barrel.
And I can see how with rapid fire (esp. with powder burners) a mistake could be made.
It seems to me that most of the tales about stacking pellets in a barrel are completely avoidable by making sure each round hits the target being aimed at.
Am I missing something intrinsically different about air rifles or a shooters mindset?
Are there different protocols folks use for air versus powder even though the outcome is the same?
I was taught if any bullet leaves the barrel I’m responsible for knowing where it will stop.
If nothing leaves the barrel or I don’t see or have a hit on target I stop shooting and find out why.
Assuming bench rest shooting here and not field hunting etc. for these "malfunctions".
I don’t understand how "stackers" are caused when using a bolt action air rifle unless proper protocols are not being kept in mind and practiced.
Stupid?maybe, inattentive definitely.
Comments?
I would drill through the slugs and get a tight fitting dowel or non-marring rod and force the remaining lead out of the barrel.
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