Hope y'all like the video ,and hope it may help some guys along the way.
https://youtu.be/ygaKF7kTSuQ
https://youtu.be/ygaKF7kTSuQ
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Easy Gunstock Refinishing
- Thread starter JoeWayneRhea
- Start date
It probably goes without saying for most people, but always sand with the grain of the wood.
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hey Joe you got any tip for a broken stock at the wrist?? brass dowel or steel?
Glue before you drill the whole for the dowell or after you drill it?
any tips or advice greatly appreciate from Joe or anyone
thanks
Glue before you drill the whole for the dowell or after you drill it?
any tips or advice greatly appreciate from Joe or anyone
thanks
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I tried the Antique Oil after You mentioned it a while back. Super easy to work with and looks Fantastic when finished. Thank You!
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Davemac18,
Epoxy the break and wrap with surgical tubing streching it tightly around area two or three layers thick, it will clamp the area evenly and not let it move while drying. Then get brass pins and drill bit from brownell’s. They have 2 different diameters to choose from. Drill a couple holes and chuck pins in drill and run thru broken area, coating them with epoxy first,clip excess pin off with side cutters and carefully file down to wood flush. Then refinish area or entire stock. Think ahead before drilling holes. Careful pin placement often looks like “ it’s supposed to be there look”. If there’s enough wood, pin doesn’t have to go all the way thru, just depends on the stock, way it’s broken, pin may only show from bottom of grip area. Good luck
Epoxy the break and wrap with surgical tubing streching it tightly around area two or three layers thick, it will clamp the area evenly and not let it move while drying. Then get brass pins and drill bit from brownell’s. They have 2 different diameters to choose from. Drill a couple holes and chuck pins in drill and run thru broken area, coating them with epoxy first,clip excess pin off with side cutters and carefully file down to wood flush. Then refinish area or entire stock. Think ahead before drilling holes. Careful pin placement often looks like “ it’s supposed to be there look”. If there’s enough wood, pin doesn’t have to go all the way thru, just depends on the stock, way it’s broken, pin may only show from bottom of grip area. Good luck
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Joe,
I've got my hands on a "new" Falcon multi-shot and thanks to Dirte's post (awesome looking), just ordered a Curly Maple tiger striped blank for the stock (I'm left handed and of course it came with a right-handed stock). Not sure if I should use Tru-oil or your Minwax Technique. I really been liking Linseed oil but with the light colored wood, I may want a higher shine.
What do you think?
Doc
I've got my hands on a "new" Falcon multi-shot and thanks to Dirte's post (awesome looking), just ordered a Curly Maple tiger striped blank for the stock (I'm left handed and of course it came with a right-handed stock). Not sure if I should use Tru-oil or your Minwax Technique. I really been liking Linseed oil but with the light colored wood, I may want a higher shine.
What do you think?
Doc
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Doc I honestly haven't tried the Minwax on a light wood , but I can't imagine it will yellow or anything . I did a stock a month or so back and applied probably 15 coats ...Came out nice !
If you let the finish set up till its really tacky and then wipe off it gives a higher shine ....And takes less coats . Only down side is dust sticks to it like glue !
Wiping it down before it can get tacky keeps it smoother ....But it doesn't get as shiny . Its kinda a trade off ....Either way if you make a mistake ( like I often do ) just steel wool it off and go at it again .
The Minwax is seriously the easiest to work with stuff I've used .
PS it has more depth than it showed in video because it was so late in afternoon both days I filmed i didn't have good light
If you let the finish set up till its really tacky and then wipe off it gives a higher shine ....And takes less coats . Only down side is dust sticks to it like glue !
Wiping it down before it can get tacky keeps it smoother ....But it doesn't get as shiny . Its kinda a trade off ....Either way if you make a mistake ( like I often do ) just steel wool it off and go at it again .
The Minwax is seriously the easiest to work with stuff I've used .
PS it has more depth than it showed in video because it was so late in afternoon both days I filmed i didn't have good light
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Hey Joe Wayne, just wanted to say thanks for the heads up about Tru-oil. I watched your video and ordered a walnut stock for my Royale, got it nice and dark how I like it. Also helped me fix some little imperfections with my other laminate stock. 
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
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Great as always Joe ! When I did my stock I strippped it and the sanded up to 1000 grit.. I wet sand it with the wipe on high gloss poly and 1500 grit three times to fill the grain.. Then 6-10 coats of the wipe on poly high gloss (Iforgot how many !).. That wet sanding using the finishing product has great results... I actually found this on a guitar sight..
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Dude no BS I subscribe to a LOT o f guitar channels ....Don't play a bit , and not gonna start..... But those guys have the most BadAss finishing tips there are
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By the way I found out on one of those sights wipe on poly is just regular poly cut 50/50 with odorless mineral spirits..
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Yeah I read that ....Its just so easy that I just use it I stead of making my own ......Lazy anybody ??? Lol
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