lets open a potential can-o-worms. I have noticed a wide range of opinions on cleaning barrels. I clean my powder burners and at times use harsh chemicals for copper removal. I know not to use anything that will harm rubber seals. So barrel on or off, what goes on the patch, and how often? Does a smooth twist barrel take less maintenance ?
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cleaning
- Thread starter mij
- Start date
I would rec. a synthetic oil. I beleive that regular gun oil could damage the o-rings. Many PCPs are difficult to remove the barreI. I have to remove the shroud on my Marauder to clean the barrel. All my other rifles, I don't, however, if you have a bolt action, it can be easier to clean by removing it.
The barrel that requires the most cleaning is a Hammer-forged. It has the most micro-pitting incorporated in the forging process. After about 150-200 shots, I lose accuracy and have to clean it. If it has been a while, I will run a few lead cloth patches first and follow up with cleaning patches lightly sprayed with Synthetic oil. I rec. that you don't run a dry patch but leave the barrel oiled after cleaning. A dry barrel can lead up faster. I have been told that shooting a "dry" barrel could permently alter the accuracy of your barrel ( or take an expert gunsmith to correct). Not trying to start an argument with this statement, but it is easy enough to leave the barrel oiled, and fire a few primer shots before I start shooting seriously.
Smooth-twist and Lothar Walther barrels require less cleaning. The opinion on maintenance for these barrels varies greatly. That said, if the rifle loses accuracy, that is the first thing I would do. Because you are not shooting powder, air rifles require less cleaning. I have several rifles with a Lothar Walther barrel and when I attempted to clean them after 200 shots, nothing showed up on the patch. I do however, wipe the outside metal with a oil patch after every use and clean them all prior to putting them up for the winter.
hope this helps.
NM
The barrel that requires the most cleaning is a Hammer-forged. It has the most micro-pitting incorporated in the forging process. After about 150-200 shots, I lose accuracy and have to clean it. If it has been a while, I will run a few lead cloth patches first and follow up with cleaning patches lightly sprayed with Synthetic oil. I rec. that you don't run a dry patch but leave the barrel oiled after cleaning. A dry barrel can lead up faster. I have been told that shooting a "dry" barrel could permently alter the accuracy of your barrel ( or take an expert gunsmith to correct). Not trying to start an argument with this statement, but it is easy enough to leave the barrel oiled, and fire a few primer shots before I start shooting seriously.
Smooth-twist and Lothar Walther barrels require less cleaning. The opinion on maintenance for these barrels varies greatly. That said, if the rifle loses accuracy, that is the first thing I would do. Because you are not shooting powder, air rifles require less cleaning. I have several rifles with a Lothar Walther barrel and when I attempted to clean them after 200 shots, nothing showed up on the patch. I do however, wipe the outside metal with a oil patch after every use and clean them all prior to putting them up for the winter.
hope this helps.
NM
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I stole an idea I saw somewhere on this or another website. I use a straw inserted in the LDC to get by the baffles when cleaning. Does a great job and I don't have to remove LDC to get a clean barrel. I also use edge trimmer line, like many others do, crimped and heated on the end and split to accommodate a patch. Usually, I just use a shot of Ballistol and run dry patches until a clean one comes out. Works for me....
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I saw the trimmer line/straw idea but that guy used WD40 on the patch.He got a lot of bad reviews for his chemical choice but the line borders on genius. tt is the bore snake for PCP's.
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I use the same supersecret concoction I used for benchrest rifle cleaning for years...I just don't slop it on any seals. Two or three wet patches followed by a couple of dry ones, finish up with a wet-but-not soaked Eezox patch. The light coat of Eezox makes the next cleaning a snap, and wipe the barrel with that last wet patch.
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All great advice. One thing I have noticed is that if I wash and clean my pellets my guns seem to go 3-4 times as long between needing cleaned.
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I wonder!
I have a WAR massaged, .25 Marauder (25.4 grainers at 910 fps). I have shot almost 10,000 rounds thorough it since I bought it about a year ago. I have yet to clean the barrel, and it still groups 5/8 groups at 50 yards. At this point, I'd be afraid to clean it!
To each his own, but the one style of pellet airgun you should never clean, are those with brass barrels.
I have a WAR massaged, .25 Marauder (25.4 grainers at 910 fps). I have shot almost 10,000 rounds thorough it since I bought it about a year ago. I have yet to clean the barrel, and it still groups 5/8 groups at 50 yards. At this point, I'd be afraid to clean it!
To each his own, but the one style of pellet airgun you should never clean, are those with brass barrels.
Upvote 0