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Cleaning new gun before shooting???

I just ordered a new AA S510 Ultimate Sporter and have a few questions. 
  • Do I clean it prior to shooting? If so, what do you recommend?
  • Do’s and Don’ts with a new gun?
  • Should I do anything to the laminate to protect it further than from the factory?
  • Should I go over the gun checking for loose fasteners?
Thanks, 
Orville
 
"Orville"I just ordered a new AA S510 Ultimate Sporter and have a few questions. 
  • Do I clean it prior to shooting? If so, what do you recommend?
Yes, best is to clean it before starting to shoot, just to be sure. I use a pull-through cord with wicks for cleaning but there are other ways to do it.
  • Do’s and Don’ts with a new gun?
Just be gentle, don't start turning on all knobs and whatever. Just start shooting and find out what needs to be adjusted to your liking.
  • Should I do anything to the laminate to protect it further than from the factory?
I don't think this'll be needed. It might be wise to find a good oil or other product to protect the laminate for the longer term but this won't be needed in the first few months for sure.
  • Should I go over the gun checking for loose fasteners?
This is always a smart thing to check. If the barrel and stock screws are tight, the rest will probably OK too.
 
"Orville"I just ordered a new AA S510 Ultimate Sporter and have a few questions. 
  • Do I clean it prior to shooting? If so, what do you recommend?
  • The answer is yes ! You have to be sure not to score the barrel so DO NOT use a brass cleaning brush from a traditional gun cleaning kit. I use weed whacker cord and cut a length roughly 8 inches longer than the barrel. Next just heat one end up and flatten it out so that the wads can be slipped over one side but wont fall off the end as you drag it through the barrel. Lastly just run it through and use new patches as needed, doesn't need to sparkle but it shouldn't take more than 5-10 runs.
  • Do’s and Don’ts with a new gun?
  • As stated above do not use any brass brush inside the barrel. I am no expert, but a lot of these guys on here are and they will tell you the same.
  • Should I do anything to the laminate to protect it further than from the factory?
  • ​I think this is a personal preference, but none the less I'm unsure as my stock is fully synthetic. I just use very minuscule amounts of protecting oil on my barrel and various other metals on the exterior of the gun.
  • Should I go over the gun checking for loose fasteners?
  • As much as I would stress this for a low end break barrel, I would say no for a PCP rifle, especially something made by a quality company like AirArms. I would mount on a quality scope and go from there. 
Great choice in gun and I hope it works well for you as I'm sure it will ! Be sure to keep us all updated on your progress with it, these guys on here are the best of the best !

-Mrod.25
 
  • The answer is yes ! You have to be sure not to score the barrel so DO NOT use a brass cleaning brush from a traditional gun cleaning kit. I use weed whacker cord and cut a length roughly 8 inches longer than the barrel. Next just heat one end up and flatten it out so that the wads can be slipped over one side but wont fall off the end as you drag it through the barrel. Lastly just run it through and use new patches as needed, doesn't need to sparkle but it shouldn't take more than 5-10 runs.

Brass brushes won't hurt your barrel if you use it in a normal way. Just don't pull it backwards while the brush is in the barrel and go easy on the crown end. The barrel steel is harder than brass so it won't harm it under normal use. I think this "myth" comes from the time that some barrels were made from brass because it was cheap and easy to make. Using brass brushes in brass barrels makes it highly likely to get scratches in the barrel.

Nevertheless, you'll probably never need a brass brush in airgun use, the nylon brushes will do the job just fine in almost all cases.

The weed hacker string is a very good tip! I use a similar idea, a nylon rope with a shrink sleeve around it, same idea and functioning.
 
"broekzwans"
  • The answer is yes ! You have to be sure not to score the barrel so DO NOT use a brass cleaning brush from a traditional gun cleaning kit. I use weed whacker cord and cut a length roughly 8 inches longer than the barrel. Next just heat one end up and flatten it out so that the wads can be slipped over one side but wont fall off the end as you drag it through the barrel. Lastly just run it through and use new patches as needed, doesn't need to sparkle but it shouldn't take more than 5-10 runs.

Brass brushes won't hurt your barrel if you use it in a normal way. Just don't pull it backwards while the brush is in the barrel and go easy on the crown end. The barrel steel is harder than brass so it won't harm it under normal use. I think this "myth" comes from the time that some barrels were made from brass because it was cheap and easy to make. Using brass brushes in brass barrels makes it highly likely to get scratches in the barrel.

Nevertheless, you'll probably never need a brass brush in airgun use, the nylon brushes will do the job just fine in almost all cases.

The weed hacker string is a very good tip! I use a similar idea, a nylon rope with a shrink sleeve around it, same idea and functioning.
i have cut one of my PCP barrels with hand saw, i was surprised how easy it was to cut. Soft.
Steel is not like steel
 
Clean the barrel with a pull thru. AA recommends napier gun cleaner but also say white spirits aka mineral spirits in place of napier gun cleaner. I have always used mineral spirits on my S510 barrel and it works great. They also recommend 20 lb fishing line in place of the napier pull thru. I have heard people say the trimmer line is a bad idea cause its abrasive. I dont know how true it is but I bought a napier pull thru kit with oil and patches for $35. I rather spend $35 on a pull thru kit than use trimmer line cause it saved me $20 when using it on a $1300 pcp. Or buy the patch worm kit but I keep my trimmer line for cutting grass and weeds. Theres nothing to adjust on AA pcp rifles only the power wheel and you can play with that without worry of messing anything up cause it only adjusts the transfer port size. Theres no adjustment for hammer spring pre load or stroke length so you cant get the AA rifles out of whack that cause issues like an Mrod. You can check screws but I dont think you will find anything that needs attention other than properly cleaning the barrel.
 
"LDP"I would bet they dont test fire a dirty barrel. I could be wrong. My wolverine hi lite was pretty clean when I received it. So I am guessing it was cleaned test fired and then sent to me with the little fouling from the test fire and maybe an oily patch that was pushed down after the test.
I'll have to ask them next time I go over there. I'm curious now. The checklist/certification they send with each rifle says before the user shoots it they should clean the barrel because there could be oil or grease in it from manufacturing. If they cleaned it before shipment, they should say so. 
 
And remember the baffles in your shroud ( one would think? I haven't personally seen this AA set up ). You may need a straw or such to thread a line through. Thinking there is an oring inside the barrel at breech end do not use any solvent that will harm it, and you may want to purchase one of those orings before needed. After cleaning "I" would lube said seal with maybe 1/2 drop 20wt sillycone oil or similar.

Most folks seem to either leave laminate alone, maybe use the lightest/safest laminate flooring cleaner if filthy. Some like SHINNY and a coat or 2 or Tru-Oil WILL make laminate SHINE BRIGHTLY.


Have ammo? Have air? Have a tracking number? LOL.
Have fun
John



 
"spysir"And remember the baffles in your shroud ( one would think? I haven't personally seen this AA set up ). You may need a straw or such to thread a line through. Thinking there is an oring inside the barrel at breech end do not use any solvent that will harm it, and you may want to purchase one of those orings before needed. After cleaning "I" would lube said seal with maybe 1/2 drop 20wt sillycone oil or similar.

Most folks seem to either leave laminate alone, maybe use the lightest/safest laminate flooring cleaner if filthy. Some like SHINNY and a coat or 2 or Tru-Oil WILL make laminate SHINE BRIGHTLY.


Have ammo? Have air? Have a tracking number? LOL.
Have fun
John



Yes to all three!
  • 
Ammo
  • Air
  • Tracking Information
 
Orville,
First great gun my Ultimate Sporter has provided a
ton of good times.

Yes give it a mild cleaning it should not be bad.
As mentioned you bought an expensive Airgun so spend the $35 for a good pull through
cleaning kit.
Also as I advised someone else a while back yes use a straw, but cut the tip at an angle
so when you slide it in from the muzzle end it will catch the barrel.
There is a gap so it can be tricky to get the straw to catch without the cut.

Taking a few minutes to make sure the barrel and stock are snug isn't a bad idea
but I would be surprised if anything is loose.

Me I like to remove the stock and use Renaissance wax on the air cylinder.
The bluing is spectacular and I do everything I can to keep it that way.
I also use some wax on the stock as an added layer of protection.

It is a beautiful gun and a fantastic shooter I want mine to stay that way so I do
what I can as soon as I can to keep her that way.
 
Two things on barrel cleaning your Air Arms. DO NOT USE A BRASS BRUSH!! to clean the barrel. You have an oring in the thimble at the breech end and it will tear it up. You only need a drop or two of whatever cleaning solution per patch or it will flood the transfer port and throw off your first few shots and dirty up the barrel again.

The stock comes Sealed with a heavy epoxy finish from the Minelli factory. So other than aesthetics it's as protected as it can be.

So other than a patch or two through the barrel and making sure your screws are snug get that puppy on the range.
 
Sent this from my iPhone as a test. I took k this pic in Africa back in July
Crusher

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