Chronograph, what’s your opinion?

If you shoot at a range with other shooters, watch out for the popularity of the doplar style chronos. Read where a guy was getting errors as there were 4 or 5 other shooters using the same type of chronos on the line and they could not figure out who's readings were who's.
I shoot don’t at public ranges, so no interference. Could see that happening. Crow
If you have the cash and really want a simple never miss a shot all in a nice package chronograph that also has BC capabilities the FX true ballistics is the best but I've also heard nothing but good things about the Garmin and that lets you stick to just the basic chronograph and offers a nice savings and in a nice size package as well.

For conventional chronographs I've found the Caldwell G2 works best for me and that's over ~5 years of use in daylight and in the shop over 1,000's and 1,000's of pellets if you are aligned with the sensors I've had almost no issues with getting good readings that said its not nearly as easy to transport and setup wherever as the radar based units. It beats the original Caldwell hands down, the inverted setup with a rechargeable battery for the lights makes a huge difference and the form factory is much nicer and quick and easy to assemble and disassemble but its still bulky and a hassle to get setup in front of the rifle compared to a radar unit.

I didn't have much success with the FX pocket chronograph but didn't play with it for to long to trouble shoot.
Ya, that comp elet. With Bluetooth is nice and not near the compliment you see with cadwells especially on apps not working..lol

Me I just use a cheap bolt on barrel china one .. shows mps at the muzzle , and at my accepted fps goal and a 10 shot string with a tight +/- of that fps goal it's good . Or good enough for me..🤤

Anyway if I had to buy different it would be the comp electric with Bluetooth .
Thanks Hateful. Crow
If you have the cash and really want a simple never miss a shot all in a nice package chronograph that also has BC capabilities the FX true ballistics is the best but I've also heard nothing but good things about the Garmin and that lets you stick to just the basic chronograph and offers a nice savings and in a nice size package as well.

For conventional chronographs I've found the Caldwell G2 works best for me and that's over ~5 years of use in daylight and in the shop over 1,000's and 1,000's of pellets if you are aligned with the sensors I've had almost no issues with getting good readings that said its not nearly as easy to transport and setup wherever as the radar based units. It beats the original Caldwell hands down, the inverted setup with a rechargeable battery for the lights makes a huge difference and the form factory is much nicer and quick and easy to assemble and disassemble but its still bulky and a hassle to get setup in front of the rifle compared to a radar unit.

I didn't have much success with the FX pocket chronograph but didn't play with it for to long to trouble shoot.
Thanks, I’m leaning towards the Garmin. It’s sounding more what I’m looking for. Crow
 
Where you gonna get it? Looks expensive everywhere I check. I want a nice one but thats a lot
I see they’re $600. in US. They’re $800. in Canada + $104. tax. I’ve found no negative, so far.
I’ve already spent a few on crony’s I find are a PITA. I have this Caldwell in corner takes too much floor space. Needs light, moody.
IMG_7618.jpeg
If I had 2 or 3 or 10 rifles, I wouldn’t be so concerned. Simple is better for me. Crow
 
Where you doing your testing?
Shoot through ones with the light shades - horrible to align & setup, sensitive to lights & environment, used one for years & has been painful. Especially at ranges where there's not a lot of bench space & restrictions.
Radars - as long as you can control the environment, seen lots of issues with those in places that have radar reflections (even in top competitions)

Small shoot through ones that you can fix to the barrel is the most reliable design IMO.
How many features you want dictate the price - FPS/MPS, App (imo unnecessary), save slots, calculations...
 
  • Like
Reactions: crowski
Where you doing your testing?
Shoot through ones with the light shades - horrible to align & setup, sensitive to lights & environment, used one for years & has been painful. Especially at ranges where there's not a lot of bench space & restrictions.
Radars - as long as you can control the environment, seen lots of issues with those in places that have radar reflections (even in top competitions)

Small shoot through ones that you can fix to the barrel is the most reliable design IMO.
How many features you want dictate the price - FPS/MPS, App (imo unnecessary), save slots, calculations...
Thanks, I’m testing right on my back porch. Not in the city.
I want accurate, reliable and simple. How’s that for a tall order?
I’ve got 2 that you assemble and need appropriate lighting, other wise forget it. Because I’m under a covered porch I need the lights. I have the FX as well. Didn’t find it reliable (close but no cigar} and it ate batteries also holding to barrel was a hassle.
Shortly I’ll be replacing 18 spring sets, bought 3 TnT from UK last night. I’ve been spending too much time farting around trying to get cronies to operate properly. Would like to have a fix before I start. Crow
 
  • Like
Reactions: Hateful McNasty
Thanks, I’m testing right on my back porch. Not in the city.
I want accurate, reliable and simple. How’s that for a tall order?
I’ve got 2 that you assemble and need appropriate lighting, other wise forget it. Because I’m under a covered porch I need the lights. I have the FX as well. Didn’t find it reliable (close but no cigar} and it ate batteries also holding to barrel was a hassle.
Shortly I’ll be replacing 18 spring sets, bought 3 TnT from UK last night. I’ve been spending too much time farting around trying to get cronies to operate properly. Would like to have a fix before I start. Crow
LoL.. and why that cheap china one is my first grab ..lol. Seems well accurate, been reliable .. lol. This gun at the muzzle is 850 fps over a shot string +/- 4 fps. Case closed .. call it good enough..🤤
 
  • Like
Reactions: crowski
Well, the simply Caldwell units are cheap, but reliable.
If I get over the hump of setting it up. Having a backporch shooting range is great if you just set it up, and put a plastic cover over it to protect it from the elements (dust!!).


I also want to measure velocity out at range, 50y and more. So far, the Caldwell has worked fairly well for that as well — sure, I didn't want to kill it and put a piece of acrylic glass over the display.... 😆

Matthias
 
Matthias, if I asked that would be pushing it, it would be death by unga bunga.
‘The deal was originally take your shooting table down when your done. Once put up I never took down, 2 years+. Hard wired my range spot lites under soffit. (She saved the marriage on that one.) Switch at back door.
The crony would be….well.….after 49 yrs. not going to happen on the porch permanently. I don’t like the assembly of the Caldwell, too fragile. Besides it wouldn’t last out there. The best thing of the FX was size, I think they’re close. Needs a nuclear reactor to keep going. Crow
 
It might seem plain and boring but the Competition Electronics Pro Chrono DLX works great for me. Especially with their light kit. They have a great app that saves info to your phone. Nothing fancy but it works really well.

I couldn't agree more. I've tried almost everything and realized I was chasing my tail on some tuneups and went back to my CE with IR lights and never looked back. It just works and in the last couple hundred shots, it has not missed a single one.
 
  • Like
Reactions: crowski
Thanks, I’m testing right on my back porch. Not in the city.
I want accurate, reliable and simple. How’s that for a tall order?
Shortly I’ll be replacing 18 spring sets, bought 3 TnT from UK last night. I’ve been spending too much time farting around trying to get cronies to operate properly. Would like to have a fix before I start. Crow

(If it wasn't clear - full disclaimer I make Chronographs)
A chronograph is both a simple & tricky thing to make work reliably.

If you want velocity at a distance or use with powder burners - then its gotta be a shoot through style or radar. Otherwise burnt powder on the sensors & false reads from propellant. That will then mean you have to control the environment to make it work reliably, i.e. use it in specific locations and/or at specific times (clouds, sun)

If you want muzzle velocity - then an attached Chrony that has enclosed sensors is the right solution. If the sensors are open/exposed, then put it in a box.

Batteries, apps - yeah that's a great way to lock customers in, grab their data & make them reliant upon you.
I do neither - mine is USB powered & just serves a webpage.
 
  • Like
Reactions: crowski
I used the shooting Chrony I bought for powder burners with my airguns at first but then I shot it one too many times. I didn't have the light kit and couldn't get readings inside. Then I tried one of the $30 chinese made units. I would never spend the money for a "better" chronograph. They almost never miss a shot, inside or outside. I prefer the tripod mount to the one that clamps to the barrel but I have one of both. The newest one reads in fps. Even if you just buy one as a backup, I can't see why people do not use these little chronys. There are plenty of things where you pretty much have to get a good one or you have junk (like a fill set for a SCBA bottle). But chronographs are not like that. The little cheap ones are fine. They even have rechargable batteries that last a long time,
 
I used the shooting Chrony I bought for powder burners with my airguns at first but then I shot it one too many times. I didn't have the light kit and couldn't get readings inside. Then I tried one of the $30 chinese made units. I would never spend the money for a "better" chronograph. They almost never miss a shot, inside or outside. I prefer the tripod mount to the one that clamps to the barrel but I have one of both. The newest one reads in fps. Even if you just buy one as a backup, I can't see why people do not use these little chronys. There are plenty of things where you pretty much have to get a good one or you have junk (like a fill set for a SCBA bottle). But chronographs are not like that. The little cheap ones are fine. They even have rechargable batteries that last a long time,
Yup.. the batteries is impressive on a charge .. heck I think in the whole time I've had mine I charged twice just to charge it ..lol.

The latest I guess can do fps as well and I think they now even have English instructions/ manual..

I had to get a translated one from a GTA forum posting ..lol.

Would I buy again ? Darn right I would ..
 
...
Radars - as long as you can control the environment, seen lots of issues with those in places that have radar reflections (even in top competitions)
...
I'm a happy user of a Labradar for several years now, decades of hate with optical chrono's including expensive ones. Unlike what I see most people do, I did real research before buying, including lot's of back and forth with the manufacturer. I ended up sending the manufacturer drawings, detailed ranges, pictures of how truly horrible my radar environment is for a doppler unit on the two ranges I shoot from my front deck. My requirements, accurate muzzle velocity data, screw the tracking out to any range, I don't need it for PB load development, absolutely repeatable always. In a crazy bad radar environment, the labradar works for muzzle velocities perfectly, for the most part I wouldn't trust data from it at MY RANGE past 10 yards for anything smaller than .30, and even at .429 with powder burners on my range not past 18 yards and at that only 1 of the two ranges I shoot of my deck, the other one not past 12 yards even with a .429. I knew it going in, the manufacturer assured me the muzzle velocities would be accurate at my range all the time, and it is. I built my own recoil trigger before the Labradar was delivered, works perfect all the time, most fussy is getting a place to connect to my .22 pcp at under 20 ftlbs tune so it always triggers on it, figured that out and never a problem. Aiming a labradar is more critical than people let on, I did a lot of testing using the SNR (signal to noise) reading on the detailed tracks to figure out where my center beam truly is. The labradar unit is NOT SYMETRICAL between the case and radar transmitter, the beam if centered apparent to the case is just by chance if it is, what do you expect when not spending thousands and thousands on a "real" doppler radar and buying a cheap unit like the Labradar... A true aiming difference of 1.5 feet at 100 yards will make a big difference in the SNR, so you need to test your unit and develop a truly repeatable aiming device for it.

It may sound like a pain, but it is just do once and never again, you have your aiming device proven to be accurate/repeatable/reliable and never have to do the work again unless you break something. I set up and am ready to use it in under two minutes outside my front door whenever I want.

How bad is my radar environment? one range at 12 yards my projectiles are passing closer than 1.5 feet to the ground(I mow the lawn tight at the point evertime I do load development, makes a huge difference in SNR), my labradar is literally pointed to the ground not 11 yards from the shooting table on that range, and just 5 yards further the projectile path is through forest the rest of the way with limbs/leaves/vines constantly moving. The longer range about 90 degrees to the left is almost as bad with metal thrown in for fun. If you couldn't aim the radar beam accurately, you could easily not even get good muzzle velocities at my development range, I've intenionally aimed it a foot off at 50 yards while testing there and occasionally get missed readings, it triggers on recoil but won't pick up projectile due to all the interference, aim it well and never a problem. Aiming in bad environment is critical.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Star7 and crowski
I did real research before buying, including lot's of back and forth with the manufacturer. I ended up sending the manufacturer drawings, detailed ranges, pictures of how truly horrible my radar environment is for a doppler unit on the two ranges I shoot from my front deck.

Wowsers! Solid work there...
A big take away from your post is also the manufacturer support - that is absolutely solid to hear the amount of support & engagement they had with you! A++ for LabRadar
 
  • Like
Reactions: crowski
(If it wasn't clear - full disclaimer I make Chronographs)
A chronograph is both a simple & tricky thing to make work reliably.

If you want velocity at a distance or use with powder burners - then its gotta be a shoot through style or radar. Otherwise burnt powder on the sensors & false reads from propellant. That will then mean you have to control the environment to make it work reliably, i.e. use it in specific locations and/or at specific times (clouds, sun)

If you want muzzle velocity - then an attached Chrony that has enclosed sensors is the right solution. If the sensors are open/exposed, then put it in a box.

Batteries, apps - yeah that's a great way to lock customers in, grab their data & make them reliant upon you.
I do neither - mine is USB powered & just serves a webpage.
Yes I was not happy when the Labradar app doesn't work unless you have GPS location turned on so the company can spy on you! They know what serial number you are using, where and when, every time you use the app! Maybe Homeland Security, Alphabet org, Alphabet org or other agency pays them for the data.
 
Last edited:
Yes I was not happy when the Labradar app doesn't work unless you have GPS location turned on so the company can spy on you! They know what serial number you are using, where and when, every time you use the app! Maybe Homeland Security, Alphabet org, Alphabet org or other agency pays them for the data.
Actually not true, the location data is for the power level of the unit, it can be higher in the United States than in most other countries by law. Most countries do not have the choice of setting the power level of the labradar. I use an old phone that has no service, even have google location services disabled on it, along with most apps needed for phone use, the phone is virtually a dumb brick now. The only thing on that old phone is the labradar app and bluetooth, nothing else on the phone works being deleted/disabled using ADB (love the older stuff you could do anything you wanted to do to it). Without google location services, the only location the phone gets is a tower id from the 2g signal for 911 calls that all phones can use without having a valid service by law, it's all the labradar app needs to allow high power use as it is only interested in what country it is being used in. Internet is not required, gps is not required, a connected phone is not required. As a benefit to using my dumb brick phone with everything deleted/disabled, the bluetooth is perfectly stable, I even left my labradar on overnight after getting it set up and changed settings while making coffee the next morning. My bluetooth never drops.
 
  • Like
Reactions: crowski