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Alkin W31 Priority Valve Problem.

The priority valve on my Alkin W31 is letting air through at 110bar instead of 150 bar whats the proper procedure to adjust that. And also its not closing all the way like its supposed to, its letting a bit of air through into the fill whip. How can i rebuild it to stop that air leak?

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There is a possibility that there is a tiny metal chip from manufacturing that may be preventing the valve from closing. I’ve seen it before. Disassemble the adjuster ( circled in red in photo) but first measure the distance between the lock nut and underside of the head of adjuster screw or count turns or anything to reassemble to same setting.
Once dissassembled look into valve to see if there’s any crud. Remove with cotton swab or shop vac with a straw.
Look at valve seat and valve to see of there’s any damage. If damaged, depending on your skills or available equipment you may be able to repair it, if not you would need to order a new one.
Second photo shows a chip found in one.
Good luck sir.

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There is a possibility that there is a tiny metal chip from manufacturing that may be preventing the valve from closing. I’ve seen it before. Disassemble the adjuster ( circled in red in photo) but first measure the distance between the lock nut and underside of the head of adjuster screw or count turns or anything to reassemble to same setting.
Once dissassembled look into valve to see if there’s any crud. Remove with cotton swab or shop vac with a straw.
Look at valve seat and valve to see of there’s any damage. If damaged, depending on your skills or available equipment you may be able to repair it, if not you would need to order a new one.
Second photo shows a chip found in one.
Good luck sir.

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Thank you sir. Quick question to increase the backwards pressure do you turn the screw at the top in or back it out?
 
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And can you also tell me how far in i should screw this bottom piece, should the little metal rod in the center have up and down play or should i screw it all the way in so theres no play?
I’m going to have to refer you to Ayden at Alkin. He can tell you how it goes together, it’s been 2 years since I had mine apart and mine may not be identical to yours. I would lay the parts out on a piece of cardboard or paper and put a number by each part so he can give you a number order as to how it reassembles. Take a picture of it and email it to Ayden.
Did you find anything that was preventing the valve from seating ?
 
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I’m going to have to refer you to Ayden at Alkin. He can tell you how it goes together, it’s been 2 years since I had mine apart and mine may not be identical to yours. I would lay the parts out on a piece of cardboard or paper and put a number by each part so he can give you a number order as to how it reassembles. Take a picture of it and email it to Ayden.
Did you find anything that was preventing the valve from seating ?
All i found was the internal were really dirty caked in some black stuff but thats it.
 
All i found was the internal were really dirty caked in some black stuff but thats it.
Let me ask this. Most Alkin owners don’t fill guns directly with an Alkin because it pumps too fast. Do you pump into an SCBA? If you do, I would drain the SCBA and remove the valve and drop a light inside the tank and see if the inside of the tank has that black crud in it too.
Almost sounds like charcoal got through the purifier. Perhaps it was packed wrong.
It would not surprise me if that crud is the root cause of your leaking. Obviously clean it real good but I would also gut the purifier and repack it in the proper order. Ayden can supply a link for repack instructions.
 
Let me ask this. Most Alkin owners don’t fill guns directly with an Alkin because it pumps too fast. Do you pump into an SCBA? If you do, I would drain the SCBA and remove the valve and drop a light inside the tank and see if the inside of the tank has that black crud in it too.
Almost sounds like charcoal got through the purifier. Perhaps it was packed wrong.
It would not surprise me if that crud is the root cause of your leaking. Obviously clean it real good but I would also gut the purifier and repack it in the proper order. Ayden can supply a link for repack instructions.
It looked like caked on carbon like from an combustion engine it was really hard to get it off i had to use a wire wheel.
 
I have the auto drain model.
I used to maintain a 21CFM Mako at a dive shop, it of course, had an auto drain. The solenoid valve had an adjustable ON time relay connected in the circuit. It also had a small manual actuation button on the relay. I occasionally would press the manual ON button to make sure that there was not any residual condensation after the ON time expired.
With your screen name being MIAMIGUY, and thinking perhaps you live in Miami, FL (pretty smart ay😂) I wonder if you might have too short of an ON time to discharge all the condensate. If you can see if there’s a manual actuate button to see if residual condensate is present you might have a need to increase the ON time if possible. Just spit balling here.
I do know if molecular sieve beads get wet they can develope a tremendous amount of heat and pressure. That’s where overpressure valves save lives. It was demonstrated at the Mako school I attended.
In any case, Ayden at Alkin should be a lot of help as he is quite knowledgeable.