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Adjust Daystate Airwolf Trigger???

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DellaDog

DellaDog

Member
Dec 27, 2016
353
76
TX, United States
Has anyone had success adjusting the trigger *heavier* than the factory set ~ 6 oz? I have a 3 year old Airwolf I purchased new and have always shot it with no adjustments. I’d like to now adjust it closer to the 1# pull weight of my center fire rifles.

I followed the directions and the screw for the first stage seems to make no difference to the 1st stage pull weight. The screw is definitely adjustable, but it just seems like it has no affect.

The second stage screw doesn’t seem to want to turn, at all, and I’m reluctant to force it. I remember trying to adjust the second stage when I first got the rifle and it wouldn’t move, so I left it as is. 

Now that I’m at the end of my warranty period, I’d like to see if I can get the “mouse click” trigger closer to a pound.

(Left several messages with AoA, but they must be shut down for Covid) 

Thanks for any input.
 
My experience is with the Red Wolf, but I assume the electronic control of the trigger is essentially the same. Yes, the first stage is basically nothing. I adjusted out the first stage travel completely to make it act as a single stage trigger. I could never get a two stage feel that was acceptable to me. The second stage screw is hard to turn, I generally insert the short end of an L shaped hex tool in the screw, using the leverage of the long end to turn it. It is extremely sensitive to movement, and the slightest bit of movement has a significant effect. Remember, this is a pressure switch,not a mechanical trigger. so it is not like compressing a spring, where it might take a full revolution of movement to have the desired effect. When you feel any movement at all, you have probably moved it more than you want.
 
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Owning BOTH an early Mk-3 and a Wolf MCT, the best i could ever get it adjusted was by IIRC adjusting the rear screw which loads up the micro switch. Go too far and the switch won't reset.

In typical micro switch fashion, there is initial travel of the switch before the CLICK, and relaxing the switch a slight amount of travel required to get a Click resetting.



Thats it ... gets no better in feel and is in reality a slightly creepy single stage tho pretty dang light.



JMO ...
 
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I was able to adjust the first stage travel on my first RW to my liking ok, but my new one I can’t adjust it? I’m thinking they must be using thread locker on new RW’s? I tried heating Allen key to help break free locker but no go, so stopped because I didn’t want to damage Allen screw, haven’t taken it out of the stock because I'll just live with it for now, it’s pretty good overall, just didn’t care for a long first stage, when I do have a need to take it out I’ll mess with it again 
 
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Guess I got lucky on my new Red Wolf. All screws turned although the second stage "weight" screw was a little harder than the others. They say not to mess with the screw directly behind the trigger because it is factory set. That is an invitation for sure and I can back up what Scott said about it. About 1/8 of a turn, clockwise if I recall, will prevent the micro switch from resetting.

I also appears that the lowest pull setting is determined by the weight of the micro switch. To get a higher pull weight, you will probably have to break the second stage weight screw loose (screw B on my diagram). I assume there may be a spring involved with that screw to make the overall pull weight heavier.

You may try turning the rifle upside down and getting a drop of solvent into the hole and letting it sit for a while to see if it breaks free. Electronic solvents should not harm circuitry, I have used them all my working life.
 
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No spring involved. They might put a small amount of low strength thread locker on it, just to keep it from unintentionally moving. The adjustment is so incredibly sensitive, you don't want it to move accidentally. I've had 2 Red Wolfs, and I assure you, it will turn. I use the long end of a hex wrench for leverage, and it also makes it easier to move in very small increments. I've used a hex screw driver, but it's almost impossible (for me anyway) to move the screw only the few thousandths normally needed for an effective change. Many new owners will make their first change, and go from 3 ounces to several pounds before realizing that this isn't at all like a typical spring compression adjustment. 
 
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Hi - I posted a how to on another forum years ago about the daystate electronic triggers and how to mess with them - you have a couple options:

You can replace the Omron D2F series limit switch with one with a twice the actuating force - 150gf vs 75gf (what's in the gun as supplied) - see data sheet here:

https://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data%20Sheets/Omron%20PDFs/D2F_0318_DS.pdf

Second you can replace the piece of spring steel that acts as the second stage "spring" with one that's a lot thinner - I know it sounds counterintuitive but the spring steel that daystate uses is very thick making the adjustment sort of on-off instead of progressive.

-john
 
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Actually - I'm modding the trigger on my new RW now and Daystate has forgone the second stage spring in the RW - the adjustment screw just abuts the milled aluminum above the trigger obviating the need for the screw in the first place - that explains why the second stage cannot be adjusted - will post pics later. 

So as far as I can tell the only option is to replace the limit switch - doing it right now....

-john
 
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It's actually much easier than the pulsar - you just remove the trigger guard which houses the trigger and first stage spring - don't lose it and the very small brass washer that sits on top of the first stage weight adjustment grub screw. Then you remove the two M2 screws locating the limit switch, carefully slide the switch up and out, carefully cut the heat shrink to expose the solder and desolder the two leads to the limit switch -then reverse the process with the new switch. Daystate trimmed a couple of millimeters off the the limit switch contact so that it won't interfere with the trigger guard - this can be done with some good fine wire cutters. The limit switch with double the actuating force makes a huge difference - like clicking a good mouse button. You can purchase this switch from Digikey for a couple dollars.

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/omron-electronics-inc-emc-div/D2F-L/83251

Here's the white sheet again:

https://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data%20Sheets/Omron%20PDFs/D2F_0318_DS.pdf





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IMG_0765.1610656980.jpeg

 
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So.... I went full mod on the Red Wolf trigger and came up with something very nice - I replaced the limit switch made to count cans of soda as they drop out of a machine to something designed as a human interface - the ubiquitous "tactile switch." There are are enumerable types of these little clicky switches in everything that has push buttons. I 3D printed a mounting base for the switch that I liked the feel of the most and mounted it up in the Red Wolf. The result is an amazing improvement over the factory limit switch which BTW is the same one used for the safety catch. No creep, very predictable and a significantly heavier than the factory which is not adjustable in any way - not sure why they tease people with a second stage adjustment screw. Here are some pics of various switches I played with and the final mod:

IMG_0786.1611182559.jpeg


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IMG_0783.1611182503.jpeg

 
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I just wanted to update this thread and give a well deserved shout out to @ocelot27.

I had a brief discussion with John and asked if he’d be willing to help with an improved trigger for my new Red Wolf Safari. I had hoped the Red Wolf trigger would be improved over the Air Wolf - unfortunately, it’s not.

John was more than helpful, he actually built two triggers like the ones above, on his dime, to test in the Red Wolf. Incredibly nice of him and an incredible improvement.

With both my Air Wolf & Red Wolf I had dialed out all of the 1st stage since the transition from 1st to 2nd was so imperceptible it would often unintentionally fire. John’s improved trigger is just right; not to light and not to firm with a much improved break when fired.

John’s trigger is a marked improvement over the stock trigger and his willingness to help a fellow air gun enthusiast, a complete stranger, speaks volumes of his kindness and character.

Many thanks sir.
 
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