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- Thread starter dr_beretta
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I owned both of those rifles and a HW30 is NOTHING like. TX as far as recoil or how hard it shakes stuff loose . A Tx vibration is like a reciprocating saw , a HW30 is an electric toothbrush.
Jeremy certainly has owned both longer than I have though . Hopefully he will chime in when he sees this thread
Jeremy certainly has owned both longer than I have though . Hopefully he will chime in when he sees this thread
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I have a five year old HW 30. I have shot countless tins of pellets off the back porch. It is the only airgun that I own that I have not disassembled. Other than installing a scope and removing sights, I haven't done a single thing. I have never put a single screwdriver to it. The screws have never loosened. I guess that's why there is only the one stock screw. You apparently don't need anything else. My R1's shake themselves to pieces. The HW 30 just shoots...
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I read somewhere by Tom Gaylord I believe a list of guns every airgunner should own before he's thru . The HW30/Beeman R7 was right at the top for a reason . I owned one that had a small problem and I returned it . But I've missed I ever since .
I probably have owned my last TX200 , of course never say never ... But I definitely have NOT owned my last HW30 . It's a gun that will make you smile every time you shoot it . Effortlessly accurate and just a great way to spend an afternoon shooting .
I probably have owned my last TX200 , of course never say never ... But I definitely have NOT owned my last HW30 . It's a gun that will make you smile every time you shoot it . Effortlessly accurate and just a great way to spend an afternoon shooting .
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Dr. Beretta, I didn't need any Loctite on the barrel pivot screws. They're DAMN tight from the factory.
It also didn't need the Vortek kit, as you may have read elsewhere. It was smooth enough, and I messed with success and they took my money.
What it REALLY needs is a good scope, not too heavy, in the range of 9-16X, and for you to take it apart and Loctite the screw in the front of the trigger group. That little bugger backed itself out on me. It is a wonderful gun, maybe the most fun gun I have to shoot, despite the fact that it is only 7 FPE. It gives about the same power as 10 pumps on the old Crosman 66 PowerMaster with one easy cock. It has that beautifully smooth finish, and even in Beech, it is nice to look at and hold. When you lift it to your shoulder, it feels like a 10/22 and BEGS you to shoot it offhand, instead of punishing you, like most springers do.
Joe old buddy, you're making a mistake by swearing off TX200s. They may never quite compare, accuracy-wise, to a FWB300. What you need for higher power is a Diana 54 or 56TH, with a 12 FPE kit. That'll double your power, compared to the FWB300, but still keep the accuracy.
TX's are GREAT airguns; just not @ 16 FPE. As you know from your trusty FWB300, sometimes, less is more. The TX is another such animal. It was designed by some brilliant Limey for 12 FPE. Then, they decided us Yankees would like it with more power, but still with all steel parts. (because MORE is the American way) Even if it became buzzy and shook our fillings loose. They tried, apologetically, to cater to the guys coming off of the 25 foot-pound Crosmans that don't shoot worth a darn; even working poorly, they're loads better.
It also didn't need the Vortek kit, as you may have read elsewhere. It was smooth enough, and I messed with success and they took my money.
What it REALLY needs is a good scope, not too heavy, in the range of 9-16X, and for you to take it apart and Loctite the screw in the front of the trigger group. That little bugger backed itself out on me. It is a wonderful gun, maybe the most fun gun I have to shoot, despite the fact that it is only 7 FPE. It gives about the same power as 10 pumps on the old Crosman 66 PowerMaster with one easy cock. It has that beautifully smooth finish, and even in Beech, it is nice to look at and hold. When you lift it to your shoulder, it feels like a 10/22 and BEGS you to shoot it offhand, instead of punishing you, like most springers do.
Joe old buddy, you're making a mistake by swearing off TX200s. They may never quite compare, accuracy-wise, to a FWB300. What you need for higher power is a Diana 54 or 56TH, with a 12 FPE kit. That'll double your power, compared to the FWB300, but still keep the accuracy.
TX's are GREAT airguns; just not @ 16 FPE. As you know from your trusty FWB300, sometimes, less is more. The TX is another such animal. It was designed by some brilliant Limey for 12 FPE. Then, they decided us Yankees would like it with more power, but still with all steel parts. (because MORE is the American way) Even if it became buzzy and shook our fillings loose. They tried, apologetically, to cater to the guys coming off of the 25 foot-pound Crosmans that don't shoot worth a darn; even working poorly, they're loads better.
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This, Its quite boring to use on a rest and doesnt behave all that good. Now with the proper hold and standing up its really a nice challenge. Easy to use and you can keep at it all day. The Fwb300s is a bit the same, at close range sitting down with a rest its to boring. Stand up and its a whole other ball game.
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I own one for a few years now. I did polish things up on the inside when I bought it, put it back together and shot probably well over 5000 pellets through it by now (lost count, but 10 tins at least). Polishing the piston, sear and trigger, re-lubing the insides and you save your self a break-in period. If you think it shoots smooth now, wait until you work on the internals. Oh, and clean the barrel before you do anything. Most Weihrauch's I worked on had pretty dirty barrels, including mine.
Occasionally I check all the screws, but with the HS30S they've never loosened up. So no need for Loctite. It's a great little off-hand shooter that can be shot all day. If you take it beyond 35/40 yards it lacks power, but up to that range it's pretty darn accurate.
Occasionally I check all the screws, but with the HS30S they've never loosened up. So no need for Loctite. It's a great little off-hand shooter that can be shot all day. If you take it beyond 35/40 yards it lacks power, but up to that range it's pretty darn accurate.
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It's supposed to arrive today so I'm definitely going to clean the barrel, loc-tite the screw holding the action to the stock, and wait until tomorrow to start shooting to let that loc-tite cure. Thank you all for the input. Hard part is if I'm going to keep it stock or place a scope on it. I'd love to have one gun that I shoot with iron sights but I may not get the most out of the gun that way. We'll see.
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One thing to do is make sure the cocking pivot is not digging into the comp tube. If you feel that dragging do not continue to shoot and I would probably add some plastic in there to rub on before I shoot the rifle. It makes sense to fix it before damage occurs. JM sells some stuff to do that but you can use something from around the house for the time being. . Maybee HW has addressed this issue by now I am not sure. This is also a problem with the HW50S.
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Here she is. I cleaned the barrel with Ballistol and ran patches until clean. I placed Loctite on all the screws and took off the factory iron sights. It looked good with the iron sights but I know I wouldn't get the most out of it with them. Either way I love the balance and weight of the rifle. Very easy to shoulder and hold steady offhand.
Tomorrow I will take it out and shoot it.
Tomorrow I will take it out and shoot it.
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Nice piece of kit. It's my grab-gun, whenever I feel like shooting in the backyard, I always grab my HW30S (or my FWB300S). Enjoy and safe shooting!
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So I've been shooting it this morning and love it so far.
I have run into a problem though. I'm noticing that there seems to be a bit of "grinding" noted on the final few inches of the cocking stroke. It's smooth about 3/4 of the way then just that sensation of metal on metal. No honking sound from the gun. No twang or buzzing when it fires. I'm wondering if I need to remove the stock and possibly apply some lube to the spring or somewhere else.
I have run into a problem though. I'm noticing that there seems to be a bit of "grinding" noted on the final few inches of the cocking stroke. It's smooth about 3/4 of the way then just that sensation of metal on metal. No honking sound from the gun. No twang or buzzing when it fires. I'm wondering if I need to remove the stock and possibly apply some lube to the spring or somewhere else.
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Fixed the problem. Took the stock off the action and checked for any wear on the metal. It appears that the bolt near the breach on the underside of the rifle was over tightened and rubbing slightly on the cocking arm. I replaced the stock, recleaned all the bolts and placed Loctite, but made sure not to overtighten the front bolt that helps mate the stock to the action. No more rubbing. Thank God for the quick fix and your suggestion.
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So far I'm getting dime sized groups consistently at 20 yards with the Crosman Premier HP's from the tin. Not very hold sensitive at all which is a plus. Pleased with this gun so far.
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I love mine too. Mine shoots Crosman Premier Lights well, but the JSB Exact RS (7.3 gr.) even a little better.
Here's more on the galling. I wouldn't necessarily assume you've fixed it permanently. It should be able to not gall itself to death with everything snug.
http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/message/1471746799/Does+HW30s+still+have+the+galling+problem-
Here's more on the galling. I wouldn't necessarily assume you've fixed it permanently. It should be able to not gall itself to death with everything snug.
http://www.network54.com/Forum/79537/message/1471746799/Does+HW30s+still+have+the+galling+problem-
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Smaug, thanks for the link. It has pictures of the galling problem, which mine did not show at this time - granted it's a new gun so who knows. Mine was rubbing in a totally different part of the gun as I said above. Now it's buttery smooth through the cocking process. I don't have JSB Exact RS's, just the 8.3 and 10.65 grains. Maybe I'll have to buy a tin a bit later and see how they do. Thanks for the suggestion.
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